Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
Select Route:
2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner 
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right 
D.A.'s Route 
Dialysis Bag 
Direct North Face 
Direct to top of Second Pinnacle  
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] 
Diversion 
East Bench Dihedral 
Finger Crack (onT-Zero) 
First Pinnacle SE Face 
Inset, The 
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) 
Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) 
Left Variation (1st pinnacle) 
Macropsychotic 
McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) 
North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) 
Northeast Chimney 
Now and Zen 
Outside East Face 
P.S. I'm Blonde 
Pizza Pie Crack 
Red Gully, The 
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane 
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) 
Second Pinnacle East Face 
Second Pinnacle South Face 
Shortcut 
Siberian North Face 
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] 
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) 
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) 
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) 
Southeast Arete (1st pinnacle) 
Standard Inside East Face 
T-Zero West Face 
Tyrolean Traverse 
West Bench Dihedral 
West Face (of T-Zero) 

Southeast Arete (1st pinnacle) 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 535
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2002
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is agood route for taking beginners on. Climb the East bench Dihedral to reach the slot between the first pinnacle and the East bench. Stem up and right to reach the broad groove which faces SW. Climb up and into this, clipping a single bolt on the way to the top.

    This is an old rusted anchor and should be replaced. Some of the leaders here have probably not developed the sense of good versus bad gear.

    It's a nice pitch, and is not too much independent climbing, but for the beginning 5.5 leader is probably a bit hairy if they realize that the bolt is no good. Still, exposure, good rock, and a nice summit.

    Descend by scrambling West and then North or by rapping from one of the several fixed anchors up top.


    Protection 

    A few pieces of this and that, perhaps with a few long slings for slinging knobs and threading holes. + 1 QD for clipping a nasty old bolt.



    Comments on Southeast Arete (1st pinnacle) Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Danny
    Jun 2, 2004
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

    This route is pretty nice combined with the dihedral route. The description mentions a "nasty old bolt". I second that. This bolt is pretty ugly and rusted. However, there is good pro for most of it. Also, the slings on the east bench seemed to be pretty sun baked and old. Rapping off the big bolt at the far east end of the chimney might be safer.

    By Wayne
    From: Superior, CO
    Jun 25, 2012

    The bolt was replaced last year. I was with Ron Olsen who actually replaced it, and the old one was a 1 inch long, 1/4 inch bolt!