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 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
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2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner T 
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right T 
D.A.'s Route T 
Dialysis Bag T 
Direct North Face T,TR 
Direct to top of Second Pinnacle  T 
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] T 
Diversion T 
East Bench Dihedral T 
Finger Crack (onT-Zero) T,TR 
First Pinnacle SE Face T 
Inset, The T 
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) T,TR 
Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) T 
Left Variation (1st pinnacle) T 
Macropsychotic T 
McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) T 
North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) T 
Northeast Chimney T 
Now and Zen T,TR 
Outside East Face T 
P.S. I'm Blonde T,S 
Pizza Pie Crack T 
Red Gully, The T,TR 
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane S,TR 
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) TR 
Second Pinnacle East Face T 
Second Pinnacle South Face T 
Shortcut T 
Siberian North Face T,S 
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] T 
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) TR 
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) T,TR 
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) T 
Southeast Arete (1st pinnacle) T 
Standard Inside East Face T 
T-Zero West Face T 
Tyrolean Traverse TR 
West Bench Dihedral T,TR 
West Face (of T-Zero) T,TR 

Southeast Arete (1st pinnacle) 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 560
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is agood route for taking beginners on. Climb the East bench Dihedral to reach the slot between the first pinnacle and the East bench. Stem up and right to reach the broad groove which faces SW. Climb up and into this, clipping a single bolt on the way to the top.

    This is an old rusted anchor and should be replaced. Some of the leaders here have probably not developed the sense of good versus bad gear.

    It's a nice pitch, and is not too much independent climbing, but for the beginning 5.5 leader is probably a bit hairy if they realize that the bolt is no good. Still, exposure, good rock, and a nice summit.

    Descend by scrambling West and then North or by rapping from one of the several fixed anchors up top.


    Protection 

    A few pieces of this and that, perhaps with a few long slings for slinging knobs and threading holes. + 1 QD for clipping a nasty old bolt.



    Comments on Southeast Arete (1st pinnacle) Add Comment
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    By Danny
    Jun 2, 2004
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

    This route is pretty nice combined with the dihedral route. The description mentions a "nasty old bolt". I second that. This bolt is pretty ugly and rusted. However, there is good pro for most of it. Also, the slings on the east bench seemed to be pretty sun baked and old. Rapping off the big bolt at the far east end of the chimney might be safer.

    By Wayne
    From: Superior, CO
    Jun 25, 2012

    The bolt was replaced last year. I was with Ron Olsen who actually replaced it, and the old one was a 1 inch long, 1/4 inch bolt!