The Thunderhead is the place to go for the biggest concentration of hard routes in Spearfish Canyon. The wall is very steep and most of the routes are bouldery. Expect difficult starts on sidepulls, underclings and pockets followed by sustained pocket pulling. A stick-clip is required to clip the first bolt on most of the routes. You'll understand why when you see the wall. Often times, you are in the crux at the first bolt and there is no stopping to clip. So, if you're feeling burly, come prove yourself on these Spearfish Canyon testpieces.
Getting There
To get to the Thunderhead, turn right at Cheyenne Crossing (toward Newcastle) and park at the Sunshine Wall parking area, which is the large pullout on the left about two miles up the road. There is a sign at the back of the pullout that reads "Saunterer's Solitude". Walk up the road about 200 yards until you come to a residence. Directly across the road from their driveway is a faint climber's trail that meanders up the steep hill. A short five minute hike takes you right to the center of the wall.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Thunderhead:
Intimidating route that climbs the steepest section of rock on the left side of the Thunderhead. This route is a sustained power-endurance climb with wild sequences. The opening sequence is very difficult and gets you in the mood for the crux mono section and heart-breaking redpoint crux up high. This is one of the canyon's hardest routes and has been described as hard for the grade. ...[more]Browse More Classics in SD
Five new routes at the Thunderhead. Far left is Mesocyclone 5.11c/d 13 bolts, Spring Shower Brings May Flowers 5.9- 5 bolts, Lee's Route name unknown 5.10b/c 10 bolts. The other two are right of the next five routes. They go up the arete left of In on the Kill Taker.The left one is Dust Devil (project), other is Bear's Cage5.11c. It shares the first bolt with Ripsnorter 12b. Stick clip the first two on Bear's Cage. ENJOY
Speaking of possibly upgrading F5, I think the majority of the routes at the Thunderhead need their grades solidified. Not necessarily upgraded, but solidified. I know that comes with time and more ascents. However, Jeremiah once told me that Stormchaser was the "hardest" 13a he's ever done. What does that mean, 13b? And recently Lee said he thought The Tempest was 13a!! And I think In On The Killtaker is on the hard side of 13b, a sentiment echoed by Dale Snyder, who got the 2nd ascent. He said it could be called 13c and he wouldn't argue. And that's his favorite angle to climb! I do think Gale Force and Alice are right on at 13a. Anyway, I'm just rambling about my daydreams because it's 45 degrees and raining out in Utah and I'd much rather be climbing these awesome routes.
Ha. That's funny. I argued with people for a long time that it was 12d and not 13a. Sounds like you would agree. Apparently we are the only two that think that though, and it's been repeated many times. I finally gave in. I think 12c is pushing it. What routes are you comparing it to at the Shadowlands?
I'm thinking of Cronin's route called Sweet or Ya or something of that note. It has a huge reach off an undercling pocket. Alice took me two tries but this route took me like six! Who know's? Grades are confusing!!!
Yeah, I hear you. Grades are obviously very subjective. Sometimes certain routes just flow for you. Master Blaster (12c) at the Mohican took me forever to do, but I did Mephistopheles (13a/b) on my 2nd try. Who knows. But I do know that Master Blaster isn't harder than Mephistopheles. I guess you have to take your strengths and weaknesses into consideration.
Miah The guy who sent Witness Protection was Matt Wendling from Ten Sleep. He is Alli Rainey's husband. He tried a few other routes and thought they were hard (Mechanical Animals, Lee's route on The Hole in the Wall, Sting). The hard routes are still waiting for you to come back and send them Miah.
There is now a new communal stickclip/squid for everyone's enjoyment at the Thunderhead. It is located on a rocky ledge between F5 and Arcing Arm Hairs. PLEASE USE IT! Please do not remove it from the Thunderhead area, and return it to the place you found it when you are done. It is recommended that you stickclip the first two bolts on most of the Thunderhead climbs. Remember, the life you save maybe your own.
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