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Custer's Last Stud 

5.12c

   

FA: Pete deLannoy
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 30 feet
Views: 210 page views

Submitted By: Greg Parker on Dec 17, 2002


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Description 

This route is hard. To my knowledge, it has only had two ascents (including Pete's) despite the fact it was put up by Pete in 1991 or 92.It is the first route you will see upon reaching the cliff. The first bolt is high, but the climbing is easy on big jugs. Then, it's not so easy. Big pulls off of little crimps gets you to the second bolt. Then, a hard deadpoint to a greasy pocket sets you up for the difficult third clip. There are two ways of getting to the next bolt. Pete just grabbed some terrible holds and jumped to the big ledge. There is also a sequence involving a long pull to a sidepull that will get you to the same spot. I only gave this route one star just because it's so short. The climbing is really bouldery and fun.


Protection 

4 bolts, cold shut anchor



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By Joshua Dreher
From: Heinz, Germany
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.12c

There is a great drop-knee/knee-bar right in the middle of this climb. Look for it FOOLS!!!