Me finishing up the redpoint crux on The Sting in ...
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So far, the reigning champ of hard routes in the canyon. I originally graded it 13c, but previous and recent attempts suggest it might be harder.... Time will tell. The route follows the incredible black streak to the right of Flight of the Bumblebee. Climb decent holds up to the 2nd bolt, which is difficult to clip, and then tackle the v9-ish crux on tiny pockets, crimps and one very strenuous undercling. After that you have a slight rest followed by a v4ish redpoint crux, requiring accuracy to a 3-finger pocket. After all of that, enjoy great 5.9 climbing for another 30 feet or so. Can't wait for a repeat. The line is 4 stars, but I only gave it 3 because the crux is such an ass-kicker.
Of course it's worth it! It needs a 2nd ascent. It's been sitting there, fairly dormant, for ten years (I did it in 1997)! McNabb has the beta. It's funny, I was just wondering if you were considering getting on it. I'd be so psyched to see someone do it. Definitely let me know if you get on it!
Hey Greg, Are you coming to town anytime soon? I got on the Sting one day a few months ago with Jason and Lee. Did all the moves but it felt hard for sure. Jason and Lee were both able to find better sequences on it than me. I found getting into the undercling wasn't that bad but thought the throw to the edge was real tough. Probably going to get on it again when the temps go down.
Hey Josh. Unfortunately, I don't think I'll be coming back to town this season. I wish I was there right now, but I need to actually try to finish grad school... Grabbing the undercling wasn't too bad, but getting stood up was the hard part for me. Once I was all the way stood up and had the undercling locked at my waist, I could just deadpoint to the edge. Maybe it's a difference in height. But, I remember just struggling getting fully stood up. Keep me updated if you get on it. I love hearing any and all spray (especially if it's about one of my routes).
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