Locate a shallow left facing corner about 20' left of Raspberry Corn Flakes. Start by pulling a very dicey move off a boulder at the base. After pulling the first crux it is possible to get some solid gear. Follow the finger crack as it widens to a set of anchors. I might add a bolt to the start to make future ascents more pleasant.
Protection
Two sets of stoppers, A set of cams up to 3", a set of RPs
C'mon you guys, stop bolting all the rock, find something you can climb.
By Brent Kertzman From: Black Hills, SD Apr 17, 2008 rating: 5.9+
Tang,
I originally climbed the F.A. of this route ground up, onsight, without bolts. At a later date I chose to not be an egotist. I went back and retro bolted an "R - Rated" route I established so as not to lock up another under protected 5.10- route established by a 5.12 climber. I am totally comfortable having done so likewise. Now 5.10 climbers may enjoy the route which is still a bit spicy.
I added a couple of bolts at the begining plus established a new bolted slab finish which adds flavor to the route. The route is no longer an "R - Rated" outing.
West Face
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