5.3 route on Sickle 

FA:  Herb and Jan Conn Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.3 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 180 feet Season:  Anytime you can get there Views: 378 page views Submitted By: joelhagan on Oct 3, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Base of climb with rope running up arete

Description 

The route is rated 5.3, but one must keep in mind that this rating is from Touch the Sky, and may seem a tad underrated (Mark Schwartz and I both thought 5.5 would be a fair rating). There are two distinct cruxes when coming to a small headwalls and having to move from one formation to another.

Location 

The route is on the northeast side of the formation and moves up the obvious arete. To get down rappel from the anchors to the North of the formation with two ropes.

Protection 

Most of the protection comes from slinging horns which can be done just barely with a double sling. It would be beneficial to bring two cordolettes that are a little longer to sling the nice natural protection. There are also a couple places where a cam or nut could be placed as well.

A very nice set of anchors are at the top of the route just below the summit. There is also a bolt that the Conn's put up in the late 50's /early 60's which is loose, tiny and not very confidence inspiring.

Photos of 5.3 route on Sickle Slideshow

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Mark at the very comfortable anchor points with a ...	Mark Schwartz at a hard part	very interesting rappel on a windy day
Willow, the trusty crag dog, watches Mark lead Sic...