Follow the rock down & around to the left. As the ground starts rising a water chute runs up the rock on the right.
Climb up the chute with some big crystals to help you out, clipping bolts as you find them. Once you get on 'top' the bolts end and you get to scramble on easy rock to the summit block. Stand up & clip the bolt on the summit block, pull the final move(s) to the summit and anchors.
Note that the route is rather 'runout' and exposed getting to the last bolt, even though it's probably only 4th class. Not your typical sport climb.
From the top anchors, rap down the face that holds Pelican's Dyke and Xenophenia. If you're so inclined, set up a TR before coming down...
Protection
5 draws and something for the 2 bolt anchor on top.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Jun 28, 2002
The runout 4th class bit is very exposed, but can be protected with stoppers if I remember correctly. The first move after clipping the last bolt is *much* harder than the rest of the climb.
Great climb! The water chute is fun, and the flakes near the top are interesting. I think I slung a flake or two. The move above the last bolt was, for me, the crux. It is a very fun, different type of climb. Enjoy!
By Paul Huebner From: Portage, WI Jul 10, 2003 rating: 5.7
I led this climb on two different trips this year. It's great fun and I try to lead it every year. You can protect yourself and your second by slinging a couple of horns on the runout arete before reaching the summit block. I was very happy to see a new 3/4 bolt protecting the move up the summit block, which is very committing and exposed.
I think this climbi is harder than 5.7 I'd bring a set of stoppers with me and some trad draws to avoid rope drag. The crux is the move at the last bolt. very fun climb!!!
This climb is spectacular. The crux is really fun but, messes with you a little bit the first time you climb it because you are standing on a nice pedistal then you have to go into the face. Well worth the time every time you visit rushmore.
Borneo
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