BETA PHOTO: Pelican's Dyke... a really fun climb. Thanks to a...
Description
This is the leftmost bolted route on the east face of Borneo, to the right and around the corner from Solitaire. The origional bolting job was a little funky, but it was re-bolted in the summer of 2003 and now climbs quite nicely.
Can anyone provide me with route info about the bolts directly to climber's left of Pelican's Dyke? They seem to be recently placed and lead to nowhere? ThanksAndrew
The climbing on the newer version (straight up the dyke) is actually quite fine. Be advised to take a longer sling or quick draw for the bolt just above the crux bulge. What was the 1st ascent party thinking about by bolting the line slightly left on the bottom section? There are now at least 12 bolts to clip. Shares anchors with Solitaire so beware if someone is climbing that route. Morning sun; afternoon shade.
It appears as though there are 3 bolted routes on the face of Pelican's Dyke. I understand from the comments that one is the original climb and one is a newer re-bolt. What is the 3rd one?
1. Pelican dyke has an anchor at the top of the formation which you can see from the ground. The route is a bit contrived as it is quite easy to step left onto solitaire for the last moves, avoiding what may be the crux.
2.The route left of the two 'pelican dyke boltlines', which follows a smaller dike up and left until it runs out, is quite fun and feels ~ .11b or so. I haven't climbed at Rushmore much so don't take too much stock in my rating. Definitely a notch harder than 'the right pelican dyke boltline', but half as long with a very short crux section