This route is on a small detached formation on the side of Shipyard Rock facing the road. This rock is to the left of the formation Sharkstooth, the small tooth shape formation near the sign in. Look for a route with 6 bolts and a prominent undercling with some yellow rock. This route gets its name because if you spend too much time figuring out the move near the undercling, your arms will get spent.
"All tuckered out"You can also climb the crack to the right of the bolt line.It takes good gear and is good fun. The crack goes at 5.10 and meets up with the bolt line up high. You need some small gear and a spread up to oh about 2 inches.
A little help please. What is the route immediately to the right of All Tuckered Out? It has six, I think, bolts and follows a flaired crack. RL appx 70 ft. 5.9, 5.10- I think.Whatever the name, it is a 3-star climb in my book.
this has to be one of the greatest routes put in by inexperienced (at that time) route setters! I was asked to climb this route after completion by the initial route setters and found this route to be very high quality for the rating and location. I felt the protection was very well thought out and adequate. There are several high-quality cruxes throughout the route making this route unique. My compliments to the initial route setters of this route for NOT putting in a route within twenty feet of another and for finding a very unique face providing a high quality climb. Vernon Phinney (dakotagriz).
By Brent Kertzman From: Black Hills, SD Mar 17, 2008 rating: 5.10b
The first ascentionists climbed direct up the face just left of the bolts and avoided the crack to the right that everyone now climbs. The rating is is about 5.11b pulling direct up the face.
The route is located just off the old road in the corridor between Hornet's Nest & Shipyard.