The first bolt on this route is about ready to pull. I made my way up to it, with the intention of leading it, and decided against it due to the bolts appearnce. It actually moves up and down significantly. Dont fall on that one!
By Brent Kertzman From: Black Hills, SD Sep 9, 2008 rating: 5.11-
This route is only six years old!!!
A classic example of why hardware store bolts should not be used for rock climbing.
I tried to explain to Bob A. the problems with using hardware from unreliable sources. He told me quality hardware was just too expensive from his perspective and that quantity surpasses quality where he was concerned.
Just what is the cost of human life worth???
This route is one of many suffering from Bob's bolting on a budget blitz of new routes and replacement in the early part of the new millenium.
This is edging into criminal from my perspective based on the fact that Bob was the first BHCC-Permit holder for Mt. Rushmore N.M. Likewise due to the fact he is an EMT/Firefighter whom should understand the importance of quality bolts for the support of human weight/life.
Hats off to the BHCC for the evolution of replacement standards for hardware beginning in 2003. I believe in the future, standards need to be enforced and permits issued for all new routing in the entire Harney Range to prevent this type of junk from sprouting from the rock and too prevent botch jobs for someone else to repair.
I have talked with several other first ascentionists to encourage them to use higher quality hardware (which they have done).
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Sep 9, 2008
Scary.
Brent, who is funding the re-bolting? Is there a website or way to contribute?
By Brent Kertzman From: Black Hills, SD Sep 10, 2008 rating: 5.11-
Chris, The Black Hills Climbers Coalition is funding, permitted and performing bolt replacement in the Black Hills. More info can be found at www.bhclimbers.com. Donations are welcome.
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