Dykes Next Door is to the left of Critical View starting underneath two parallel and diagonally running dykes. the first fifteen feet are the crux of the climb with a 5.9 portion to the top.
From South Seas sign-in, walk left on trail (toward Wrinkled Rock campground) for approximately 50 meters and Critical View will be on your right.
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 30, 2002
This is a very good climb. However, I bet that I have seen at least 4 different people deck while clipping the second bolt. The second bolt is still in the crux, and when yarding out slack to clip, it is easy to fall. Nobody seems to get hurt because the landing is good and it is not that far of a fall.
It's worth noting that there are no anchors at the top of this climb (at least there wern't this spring), but the anchors on the top of Critical View are easily accessable. It's best to have someone second this route to clean the draws.
To correct my own comments, I was just on this climb today and it appears that someone recently added anchors at the top. Many thanks to the individual who put them there. Also, I think this route could use one more bolt between number 4 and 5. Although the climbing in that section is relitavely easy (5.8ish), falling just before the fifth bolt could result in a nasty deck on the small ledge below. Just a thought...
We can thank the hard work of Ron Yahne on the installation of the bomber set of anchors and thank The Black Hills Climbing Collation for the dollars to purchase the hardware for this route and MANY others in the Rushmore area.
Any ground fall is a problem when considering you are a bolt or more above the ground. I can only give this route one star considering the super high quality longer routes nearby.
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