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Pigeon Roof 

5.10

   

FA: Mike Engle, Mark Jacobs, and Vern Phinney, 1986
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 140 feet
Views: 146 page views

Submitted By: CURT LOVE on Jan 27, 2004


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Description 

This route starts to the right of the wall with many new routes on it. This wall is also the wall used to descend this route. 1 200 ft rope will do just fine. Pigeon Roof starts on a face next to a chimney and works on to the face which has one bolt on it, take care in protecting the moves to the bolt. After the bolt you move up into a right facing corner and climb the crack / dihedral. This route then moves up through the big roof which is visible from the ground. After the roof there is not much for gear - I did not see any bolts, but I did get some #1 camalot into a horizontal break which lead me to a big horn. Have fun this route was fun and kind of spicy so be a little prepared.


Protection 

PRO Take small, medium, large, and more so in the medium, not much small or large gear but do bring some. long slings help to keep the rope running nice. Bring a cord as well for slinging big horns for anchors, if you need.



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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Jan 30, 2006

The rating for this doesn't look right. Anyone have a correction? I think 10ish is what I remember from the guidebook?

By John Klooster
Jan 30, 2006

The Phinney guide says 5.10. the old climbingblackhills site also had it rated as a 10. FA Mike Engle, Mark Jacobs, and Vern Phinney in 1986