BETA PHOTO: The route starts in the lower right of the photo (...
Description
This is an excellent line that we've all been walking past for years! I finally had the time to get after it this summer, after some quick looks over the past couple years.
A couple hard moves will get you to the first bolt (stick clip?), then it eases off to the ledge. From the ledge it starts out real steep and goes to slightly overhanging through the crux, which is getting to, and then past the obvious quartz 'eye' just above the 3rd bolt off the ledge. Another 30 feet of sustained climbing (between great clipping stances) will take you to the 2nd big ledge.
From here it's classic crystals and knobs for 20 feet up and right to the rap anchors on the left.
Location
This route is the second route you will come to as you walk down the draw to the 'Creature' climbs, C.I.C., and Too Easy for Hard Men. It is on the rock face on the right side of the draw, just past the deep cracks of Child of Chaos.
As with these other routes, walk past Teachers Pet and Crystal Ship, taking the trail up and left, and then down into draw. The trail leading down into the draw is now pretty deeply eroded, you can't miss it.