Directions to the route may be found under the 'Rock' description of Picture Window. You'll know you're there when you see folks waiting for the route.
Seriously, it took until my 6th visit to Rushmore before I caught this route with no one on it. A cool rock graced with an incredible route. Very popular and deservedly so.
Gossamer climbs the right side of the fin / arete up to, beside, and over the hole (picture window) in the rock. The start is a bit of an awkward (yet easy) move up to a block and the start of the fin. As the ground drops off beneath the climb, it is wise to protect the first moves with a stopper (#10 BD?) or cam.
Once on the block, layback the fin, and start moving up clipping the bolts. With each move, the angle of the fin lessens and makes things just a bit easier. Once at the apex of the rock, you'll find 2 'quick clip' type anchors - slip the rope in & get lowered to the ground. Because of the nature of the route, it needs to be seconded to be cleaned, and rigging a TR wouldn't really work.
The climb is rated 5.7 and the moves are 5.7, but has a certain intimidation factor. A fall for the leader OR second could get a bit messy. As with so many climbs in the Black Hills, this isn't sport climbing - it is bolt protected climbing.
Protection
4 bolts = 4 draws, probably a nut (or two) for the start.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Jul 3, 2002
This is my favorite route at Rushmore.
This is a serious lead for very short climbers. The first bolt is a stretch to reach from a comfortable stance for me, and I am 6' tall. For short people, a very thin and hard for 5.7 move must be made before clipping the bolt - yikes! Placing a nut is a very good idea as you can fall a long way after the traverse onto the shoulder before you clip that bolt.
Wonderful starter Black Hills route. Great start, gets you thinking before you even leave the ground. Kinda neat getting lowered off and looking thru the picture window.
This route is on a massive angled flake with a huge picture-window hole in the middle. Doing a layback all the way up the huge flake makes this one of the most unusual and thrilling climbs in the area.
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Oct 8, 2002
This climb definitely deserves 3 stars. I think it is great because there is no other climb anywhere like it (that I am aware of). The lieback moves are super fun too.
Yep. You can place a nut in the first small crack. Once on the small ledge below the first bolt, you may want to throw a runner over the big jug. This makes clipping the first bolt a breeze. Love the new top anchors, too!
If you want to protect the first moves but didn't bring gear try knotting a runner & wedging that in the cracks. I found a 'placement' that might have actually held a fall...
Climbed it 08/01/04 with my wife pulling the second for me. I counted only 3 bolts, maybe I blew past one but I doubt it. In the morning it was shadey (nice for a 90+ day) and cool. Gossamer is a MUST for the Dead Presidents Area.
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Oct 15, 2004
Cool photo Greg! That's an interesting perspective.
Important Safety Note: The use of top anchors for top roping should be questioned. At many sport climbing areas the top anchors are used repeatedly for toproping. Visible wear can be seen and climbers still top rope directly from the top anchors. This is a Lazy Practice that should be stopped! It takes only moments for the leader to set up the top rope using quickdraws. This saves the anchors, saves time and money and it could even save someone's life! As the last climber, take the time to rappel verses being lowered down, rappelling will help save the anchors. Please help by setting an example.
Beautiful route that gets your attention right away. Don't go here on a cold windy day. The wind funnels up the draws and slams into the rock. The first time I climed the route I was worried about getting blown off. The most recent time I damn near froze. When it is nice and warm out ... well then don't pass up the opportunity to climb this one of a kind route.
I was climbing with a large group of guys and Sam Papendick was on lead, once he topped out and was on belay something happend a miss communication and Paps was dropped from just below the window, a ground pound the most gnarly shit I have seen in a long time.
Picture Window
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