Star Dancer 

This route was first climbed by Mike Engle. It was drilled on the lead. Mike's first wife Sherri always thought Stardancer would be a nice name for a route. So when Mike saw this route he knew he would use Sherri's Stardancer for the name.

Alot of the route information for Rushmore including first ascent names can be found in Vern Phinney's Guide book for Mount Rushmore. He is currently working on a new edition which should be out next spring.

The crux move is about 2/3rds up. A little left traverse with not much for hand holds. You have to trust your feet. It's well bolted though because the bolt is near the crux move. If leading this climb is beyond your comfort zone, you can scramble from the backside to set up a top rope. Be safe and clip in while fiddling around at the top. Then after you top roped it you'll wish you would have just lead it! (been there, done that!) :-)

Did not think this climb was worth the effort it took to achieve the summit. There was no payoff that warrents this climb any stars ... let alone any dancing.Counted 10 clips. I recomend that if belaying inbetween the boulder and the climb for TR, that you leave in a draw at bolt 5 or 6, clipping it back into the system upon lowering. Doing this will prevent an ugly swing into the gully that separates Stardancer from Solo System.

An all-time classic. A must do for everyone. Deserves five stars on the three star system. It is hard to invision someone not having a great time on this climb. Less elaboration, more upward motion. Sorry you had a bad day.

This was my first lead in the Hills, and it freaked the hell out of me. I had the chance to do it again last summer and found it was still well worth the time. I think this route has gotten a little harder over the years as some small crystals have seemed to have broken off near the top, and it may go around 5.9 these days. A well-protected route, however, and a must-do in my opinion. I feel like you're on your own on this one, Chad, as just about every regular Black Hills climber I know holds this one in high regard and consider it a Hills classic, but everyone is entitled to their own opinion. I hope you'll give it another chance some day!

I think it is hard to imagine a better 5.8 frictiony sport route anywhere. I haven't done it since probably 1996, but it felt like very average 5.8 at that time.

I agree with Brad. This climb has had crystals broken off and is probably closer to a 5.9. I also agree that this is one of the classic climbs in the area.

BTW Brad, how are things going in western Wyoming?

Toni

Hey, Toni (and to all my other BH climbing homies),

Western Wyoming has been completely refreshing, you might imagine, compared to my former residence in Gillette. A whole new crop of wilderness to explore, and we've been really taking advantage of it. But even with all these mountains and all that rock in my back yard, I still miss the Black Hills. Hope to make it back before the snow flies, so keep in touch.

Heading up the Grand this week, so wish me luck

Cheers,Brad

This route kicks. Anyone who dosent like it is retarted like one of the other dudes who talked about it totally wrong. Good holds all the way up. One or two friction movesand you can climb up tho the first bolt or start on the big boulder next to it and clip the first bolt.

I've only led this route twice. Both times it was the highlight and last climb for those two trips right before facing the 770 mile drive home. In any case, it's a fantastic climb even though the top doesn't have a summit-like view. Also, for me, the crux was near the top just above the last bolt.

Classic climb that will keep you on your toes (hopefully) the whole way. Crux is near the top when things smooth out a little, probably 5.9 at that point. We counted 13 bolts plus two for the anchor. 60 meter ropes barely gets you down but does the job.