This is a shot of Angie nearing the top of Weird W...
Description
A great, long climb. Incredible moves, incredible position. This route summits the main rock in the Marker formation. Gets my vote for the best 5.7 in Rushmore!
Finding this route the first time around can be a bit of a chore... Follow directions to the route 'Star Dancer'. As you're looking at the rock, scramble up to the right, passing the first gully on the left, into a small opening / grassy area, and continue to the next gully on the left. At the top of this gully are some large blocks / chockstones.
After surmounting the blocks, continue on to the right until just past the chimney on left (the Gilson Chimney). The various starts for Weird Water begin here. The variations on the start range from 5.2 (traversing up and right to the main line - 2 bolts) to 5.10 (direct start with a couple bolts). The line I'll describe is the trad start and keeps the entire route at 5.7.
After scoping out the direct start, look to the finger-type crack a couple feet to the right. Climb the crack, protecting to your comfort level (stoppers work well). The crack ends at a small shelf after about 25'. I found a nice placement for a 1" cam at the back of the small shelf.
From the shelf, pick out the biggest crystals and move left and up to the first bolt. I found these moves to be a bit nervy. From that point on, continue from bolt to bolt, being careful to follow the bolt line as it moves to the right (direct up the water streak is 'Weird Dripper'). If you pick a direct line between each bolt you can make this climb much more difficult.
After finally reaching the top you'll find a small summit and a two bolt anchor. Enjoy the views, tie your ropes together, and rap down.
Protection
A ton of draws (maybe 15 bolts?), plus a couple stoppers and/or small cams for the crack start. Something for the 2 bolt anchor on top.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Jul 2, 2002 rating: 5.7
This is the second best 5.7 at Rushmore behind Gossamer. The 5.10 direct start is the best way to go. The 5.2 start is easy, but you shouldn't protect it to avoid heinous rope drag, so be careful clipping the first bolt. Great climb.
By Paul Huebner From: Portage, WI Jul 8, 2003 rating: 5.8+
I led this route on 07/06/03 and I would tell all 5.7 leaders to beware that one false move and you'll find yourself on 5.9 - 5.10. It's a big face and the bolts are hard to see since they zigzag up the route. Also, I've led Stardancer twice and many other 5.8s and 5.7s in the Needles, including Old #8, Bolts for Bob, Bolts for Bert, Solitaire, Aging Gracefully, Goatskin, Toe Boit, and all of the versions of Waves including the original and a new 5.9 called Bob's Bolts and Anchors? on toprope and Wierd Water is harder than any of them.
Fun climbing w/exposure. Appropriate route finding will keep this climb as rated; however, the potential to make this harder than needed is very easy to do. You are sure to inadvertently find your way into counltess family photo albums as this climb is highly visible to traffic on the highway who are not shy about stopping, shouting, and waving-trying to get your attention while snapping photos.
I think this is the best 5.7 at rushmore. I myself like the 5.2 start and do it more often than the 5.7 because it is a leisurely climb and has an awesome veiw. Its is most definitely worth the effort.
Middle Marker
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