BETA PHOTO: A view of the rock with the Dire Spire on the lowe...
Description
Emancipation Rockphormation is basically the northern third of the Mount Rushmore massive. Although much climbing is legal here, make sure that the rock that you are on is legal to avoid trouble (large fines and possibly jail for climbing or hiking in the wrong places). Boundary signs are in place to avoid crossing into the restricted areas. A large gully system separates Emancipation Rockphormation with the main wall.
This said, the legal areas on this wall are a great place to go. Relatively long routes (3 pitches) are found, and a lot of good cracks are available. Also, a wicked looking spire called Dire Spire is in the area which has some good routes on it.
Getting There
From the stoplight at Mount Rushmore, drive about 1 mile away from Keystone and park at a pulloff on the right side of the road. This pulloff should be quite near Dire Spire, a large independent spire just east of the road.
This climb is one of the classics at Rushmore. It is long and has varied climbing. Follow the trail east from the parking near Dire Spire. Look for a prominent dihedral that shoots up to a gigantic roof. This is the climb, although the route traverses and does not mess with the roof. Pitch 1: Climb up a steep crack that widens near its top. Some plant life is encountered low. This long pitch is the crux, and ends at a ledge with fixed anc...[more]
Is anyone aware of whether the Profile route is accessible right now, considering the closures that we've seen in Emancipation and areas close to the monument? Are there still padlocks on the bolts? Anyone?
Does anyone have any info regarding whether or not the Emancipation Area will be opening up any time soon? It has been closed off and on since February, and as of now there is a sign at the parking area stipulating that the area is closed. Any info is appreciated!
It sounds like you are coming back this way in the near future. Your return is highly anticipated. My shoulder reduction skills are lacking I need some hands on training.
Since there has been recent talk about bolted cracks in the hills I felt the need to go with poundermcnasty and repair the anchors on the 5 star bolted crack Snakebite Evangelist. The mystery of the suspect bolts and anchors is over. Let the siege begin!
Hey I've got an idea, lets smash all the old ( 5 piece rawl) bolts out of the routes we want to do in rushmore and then they wont be suspect anymore, so what if they are 5 piece rawls. I'm sure all the bolts on the iron wall that have been replaced really needed it.
The recent Rock and Ice issue speaks volumes about issues that are occuring in the black hills. The comment from the black hills climber who wants to be anonymous has a strong resemblance to the quote in the January issue of R&I by a local developer. The statement is a load of shit and clearly one sided view. Just because you dont have our phone #'s does not mean we don't exist. Keep your bullshit to yourself. The bolted canyon spread is relavant if you ask me. No wonder you want to remain anonymous.
Allister,Why is it that when someone sends you an e-mail through this website there is a message stating "no delivery possible, address not vaild"? Are you hiding under an alias? Or are you just an evil alien? Better yet, your just a coward.Regards,George Hayduke
I believe you did in fact get personal in your post about the recent R&I article on ethics. It appears your comments are pointed towards Brent. I personally don't endorse all of what Brent has done (his attitude towards others at times) but he is a very motivated member of the BH climbing community. I don't believe Brent has an agenda and has stated he is not placing new routes anymore due to jokers like you.
Brent has put in many super high quality routes, replaced hundreds of aging bolts and pitons, started and continues to keep the Pumpfest going, has shown he can work with the Needles community for the betterment of the BH climbing community and has spent thousands of his own hard earned dollars so others may benefit. The way I see it is Brent is the beta master of the Black Hills and continues to promote community.
Allister, Please honestly ask youself what have you done for the climbing community other than bash it? It is because of inmature individuals like you that people choose to be anonymous, myself included. Brent recently told me he was strongly considering stripping all of the hardware from the routes he placed. This would be a tremendous loss for most of us. My experience is Brent is generally a man of his word.
Allister, Please keep your insane comments to yourself in the future or at least take some PROZAC.
Want to say that Brent's enthusiasm over the development of new discoveries, and willingness to share beta was a bright moment in a climbing history dominated by squabbling and egos.Raspberry Rocks, Iron Mountain, New "Dome"ensions, and the Rock Maze are examples of the areas that BK helped scout and develop. I've enjoyed reading back through some of his posts on this site. Time to reflect on the goals of route development.
Planning to make it back to the Hills next year Brent. Hope to meet up, and you can show me around.On Belay,Mark J
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 6, 2005
I'm not a local to the Black Hills anymore, so this maybe is common knowledge, but was news to me... As of 5/28/05, there were area closed signs on all the trees surrounding Emancipation. Anybody know any more info about this? Thanks!
Interested to know more about the crack just to the right of Chemical Wire. The crack is the left side of a 'V', kinda offwidth, going up left towards the Chemical anchors. It's a good way to toprope chemical wire if, like me, it's beyond your ability.
VernI just spoke with Rob Pism about the first ascent of Profile 13a/b. He and his partners have given it the name of "Three Musketrre's". So if you are going to update the guide book you may make a note of this. I think they are coming back this weekend to try Paul Piana's Flamingo Drinker on Ottens Shoulder. Paul gave permission to open that one up. So Vern keep your pen ready for another update on this one.
Congratulations on the send of Profile/3 Musketeers. It must be 17+ years since it was "envisioned" by Vern? My generation truly owes a debt of gratitude to those from the previous generation (like Vern).
Question...On Garfield, instead of traversing over below the roof a fingercrack keeps going up past a tree, close to the bottom of the roof. Does anyone know what it is, what it is rated, and how easily it is protected?
Is it possible for the BHCC to convince park rangers to take a day and remove the old, and currently bogus, "No Trespassing" signs? If there is one thing that is going to keep people from climbing, it's thinking they may be arrested or fined.
Emancipation
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