This route starts about 100 feet left of Garfield (downhill direction - when standing at the base of Garfield, looking left it is the most prominent flaky crack you see and you'll notice it gets smaller as it goes up.) Climb up 5.7 about 30 feet to a small pod which starts a right-facing dihedral. The dihedral peters out soon enough into a flaring crack that gets smaller then bigger again and soon enough puts you under a little 2-ft roof. Work around the roof to the right and you'll find anchors there.
If you are going up to onsight this thing. Have in your mind that you will be hanging out just a bit to dink in some gear here and there. 11d is right on but 12a is not far at all if you make some errors in the crux. Oh ya this thing is really really good. Nice job Travis, one of the best climbs in the area. Love CurtGEAR INFOsmall ta 2 inchand get after it1-11 HB's, small cams you can place some med cams as well+ one bolt down low
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT May 28, 2004
I agree that the rating is 5.11d if you happen to hit it right and a little harder if you don't. The gear is great and a little fiddly at times. I prefer however to refer to the first ascentionist as "Cute Boy" Rypkema,aname name given to him by some of his adoring fans of whom I am one.
White House Wall
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