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Wrinked Rock
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Double Chin 
Lizzy Beams Desire 
Wrinkled Rock 5.8 Variation 

Lizzy Beams Desire 

5.14

   

FA: Todd Skinner
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.14 [details]
Length: 50 feet
Views: 570 page views

Submitted By: Cameron Luth on Mar 24, 2007


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

This route is way balancy. Not sure if it's still a 14; I just went by what the book said. This route follows an orange streak to a six-inch bulge with some of the most balancy climbing I have ever done.


Location 

Once you find wrinkled rock, this route is the third route from the east on the south side across from a big roof.


Protection 

4 bolts



Add Comment Comments on Lizzy Beams Desire
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By Greg Parker
Administrator
Mar 27, 2007

Are you implying that you redpointed this route?

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Mar 28, 2007

I also don't believe the big numbers. It is very difficult to believe them when you have only posted photos and specific information about routes in the 5.9 and under range, and you post very vague or wrong information about routes in the 5.12-5.14 range.

If you are going to post routes like Lizzy Beam's Desire, you should include photos, specifics, and at least write up a route description that you can be proud of. I agree with Brent and Greg in that every route description you've written up has been worthless - vague, poor or just wrong information, tons of typos, etc.

If you want to post up a route like Lizzy Beam's Desire, rise to the challenge of making the route entry worthy. Otherwise, let the line speak for itself and leave it be.

By Cameron Luth
Mar 29, 2007

I dont get caught up in big numbers, i just see a line i like and want to climb it. Simple as that. Yes sometimes I ask how hard a route is, but its because sometimes i get curious and dont feel like getting my but kicked that day. To me all that numbering system does is make some sound better than others. I dont believe in that because we are all equal, and it evens out somehow. I dont claim to be a better climber than anyone else or in any other way for that matter.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
Mar 29, 2007

I can't speak knowledgeably about Lizzy Beams Desire, but I do have some thoughts about posting big-number routes. I myself have posted a few routes that I have not redpointed (Concrete Jungle and Dodge the Lemons at Rumney) though I have intimate knowledge of these climbs from falling on them so much. It seems to me that as long as you know the route, you should be able to post. Apparently, only one person has redpointed LBD and if we were to hold to the standard that the poster must have redpointed the route, it seems possible that LBD will never make it onto the site.

As for "paying your dues" on lower grades, I have mixed feelings. Yes, it's important to build a base and creating a solid pyramid is the best way to succeed. However, to think that you must do a certain route before doing another route--this sometimes backfires, or it has for me. I say, you should get on the route you want to get on, the one that inspires you, be it a 5.7- or a 5.14.

By Greg Parker
Administrator
Mar 29, 2007

I actually removed my earlier comment, because after re-reading it, I felt like it came across as an attack on Cameron. I didn't want that. Cameron, you are young and really psyched on climbing. I can respect and identify with that. To want to get on every line that inspires you is understandable. Unfortunately, climbing just doesn't work that way. I'm very inspired by Sharma's Realization (15a), but that does not mean I'm going to recruit a belayer to hold my rope while I flail all over it.
Trying a route that is over your head every once in a while is fun and it gives you something to strive for. But, if that is all you do and don't enjoy the successes and gratification that come with redpointing routes within your ability, you are going to get burnt out or injured fairly quickly.
There are no rules in climbing and you can do whatever you want, but you have to understand that if you post comments like those above, people are going to question your honesty and motivation.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
Mar 29, 2007

I think the issue might be with the quality of the post. I have always wondered about this route, and it sounds like this route has a pretty colorful history. Why not do a bit of research and add that into the route description?

By Cameron Luth
Mar 29, 2007

Finally, someone who can see where I'm going with this, thank you Jay.

This is the first 14 I've ever been on and my friend and I wanted to get our butts kicked, so we spent part of the day on it. When I was young I learned to get better at something you have to get your but kicked every once in a while. I may not care for the ratings but I do pay attention to them.

I deleted my earlier comment because I didnt like the way I came off at all, I was a little hot when I wrote it. I only get on hard routes once in a great while to figure out where I'm at, and notice that I only posted on 2 routes that are of hard grade and thats all the hard ones I get on. Otherwise its 11s or a few easy 12s. The post before made it sound like I just get on any ol climb, thats not the case.

When I put the route up I saw no harm in the simple fact of just knowing its there. I wasnt trying to impress people and certainly didnt think it was going to create so much tension.