Dale Snyder carefully picking his way through The ...
Description
Lean Years is the first route just to the left of the large boulder. It is a good lesson in delicate face climbing. The holds are small, and a sneeze or a light breeze could knock you off. Getting off the ground is the crux. Some call the first move 5.11d, but it is basically just a boulder problem start at V3/V4. Try this to improve your footwork, as the angle is very low.
Protection
5 quickdraws for bolts. Fixed anchors. The route is very short and well protected.
From what I have heard, Lean Years actually starts to the left of the direct line and climbs right along the vein into the linear portion of the climb. This is thought to be 5.11a and has a much better start than the direct version. The direct line does add a hard portion to this and it is thought to be 5.11d. On the crimpy side.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Sep 7, 2009 rating: 5.11d
Yeah we thought 11a was somewhat sandbagged with the direct start. Fun route, good lesson in delicate face climbing indeed.
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