South Canyon Wall

Description 

The south wall of Falling Rock Canyon sees much less traffic, and the climbs are harder to find. The aspect of the cliff is north facing, so it is a good wall to climb on in the afternoon with shade offered. The climbing is mainly on bolted vertical limestone faces with small pockets. There are only a handful of routes to be done here.

Getting There 

Follow the directions to Falling Rock under the area description. Then park at the pulloff .7 miles after turning off highway 44. Follow an old dirt road east from the parking lot. Go straight at the first intersection, then continue up a small hill to the cliff crest. Head left on an obscure road following the cliff top. Eventually, you'll notice that you are running parallel to the North Canyon Wall, and descending slightly.

At this point, a faint trail heads right to a rock protrusion with a couple routes (Spermatose - 5.9, and up), and another trail continues straight to another protrusion with a few routes (Better a Has Been - 5.8 and up).

Featured Route For South Canyon Wall

Men Without Egos 5.10b  SD : Falling Rock : South Canyon Wall

To access this route drive south on Falling Rock Rd. past the parking for the North Wall. Continue into canyon and up the otherside. At the top of the hill a blocked road will appear on the left. Park here then hike old road to east. Upon reaching the top of the South Wall continue walking east-northeast along a trail. Aim for the northeast rim of the canyon to the north. Upon reaching the northeast corner of the rim locate a coulair that is nort...[more]