Falling Rock is good for a pumpy winter workout, or a forearm burn for an hour or two after work. This area is a limestone walled canyon which stays warm enough to climb in the winter due to south facing rock. There is not a huge quantity of routes, but they are all vertical and less than half a rope length. The parking lot is located at the top of the cliffs, so setting up topropes is very easy, although many routes are bolted. Also, a few cracks are available, so bring a light rack to lead these.
Getting There
Drive four and a half miles out of Rapid City on highway 44 (Rimrock Highway) from the junction of Jackson Blvd and Canyon Lake Drive. As the road curves to the right, watch for a gravel road leading off to the left. Turn on to this road and immediately is a parking lot for the main area, which has the south facing cliffs and the bulk of the routes. If desired, continue another .7 miles to a pulloff on the left with an old blocked off dirt road. Park here for the north facing cliffs, which are better for warm days.
To access this route drive south on Falling Rock Rd. past the parking for the North Wall. Continue into canyon and up the otherside. At the top of the hill a blocked road will appear on the left. Park here then hike old road to east. Upon reaching the top of the South Wall continue walking east-northeast along a trail. Aim for the northeast rim of the canyon to the north. Upon reaching the northeast corner of the rim locate a coulair that is nort...[more]
Can anyone provide better directions to "Falling Rock Boulder"? I can't see bolts on anything out trher but the regular routes.
from the site directions: "There is a large bolted boulder on the northwest side of the canyon." ...and... "Find this boulder near the North Canyon Rim in between the parking area and the downclimbing chimney. "
I've found a large "candidate" boulder, w/ fist crack up the middle and really smooth high east side, that would make some good top rope climbs (if you're up to it), but I don't remember seeing anchors on top. This boulder is below the overhanging section of the North Canyon wall. Also, does anyone have info on the bolted routes on this overhanging section?
Important access issue! This it to inform all climbers that have or are planning on accessing Victoria Canyon by way of Dark Canyon to boulder or climb NO MORE ACCESS THIS WAY! PRIVATE PROPERTY! It is trespassing if you go in this way no matter where you park. There is another way in by way of Sheridan Lake road when the USFS road opens on May 15th. For more information you can email me through this site.
Falling Rock
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