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Falling Rock

Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 21, 2002
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker
Latitude: 44.0597  Longitude: -103.4232 
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Description 

Falling Rock is good for a pumpy winter workout, or a forearm burn for an hour or two after work. This area is a limestone walled canyon which stays warm enough to climb in the winter due to south facing rock. There is not a huge quantity of routes, but they are all vertical and less than half a rope length. The parking lot is located at the top of the cliffs, so setting up topropes is very easy, although many routes are bolted. Also, a few cracks are available, so bring a light rack to lead these.


Getting There 

Drive four and a half miles out of Rapid City on highway 44 (Rimrock Highway) from the junction of Jackson Blvd and Canyon Lake Drive. As the road curves to the right, watch for a gravel road leading off to the left. Turn on to this road and immediately is a parking lot for the main area, which has the south facing cliffs and the bulk of the routes. If desired, continue another .7 miles to a pulloff on the left with an old blocked off dirt road. Park here for the north facing cliffs, which are better for warm days.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Falling Rock:
Project Mayhem   V5     Boulder, 10 feet   Falling Rock Boulder
Freight Club   V10 X     Boulder, 10 feet   North Canyon Wall
Garden Party   5.8     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   North Canyon Wall
Better a Hasbeen Than a Wannabe   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   South Canyon Wall
Paperboy Centerfold   5.8     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   North Canyon Wall
Two Bits   5.9     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   North Canyon Wall
Spermatose   5.9     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   South Canyon Wall
France By Chance   5.10b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   North Canyon Wall
Men Without Egos   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   South Canyon Wall
Blockhead   5.10     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   North Canyon Wall
Flatland Fever   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   North Canyon Wall
Adaptation   5.11a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   North Canyon Wall
One Finger Solution   5.11c     Sport, TR, 50 feet   North Canyon Wall
Browse More Classics in Falling Rock

Featured Route For Falling Rock
Leading Men Without Egos, my buddy who took the pic had some weird setting on, but it makes it look cool in my mind

Men Without Egos 5.10b  SD : Falling Rock : South Canyon Wall
To access this route drive south on Falling Rock Rd. past the parking for the North Wall. Continue into canyon and up the otherside. At the top of the hill a blocked road will appear on the left. Park here then hike old road to east. Upon reaching the top of the South Wall continue walking east-northeast along a trail. Aim for the northeast rim of the canyon to the north. Upon reaching the northeast corner of the rim locate a coulair that is nort...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD


Comments on Falling Rock Add Comment
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By Eric Krantz
May 11, 2005

My friend's car was broken into in daylight (11:00 am) last week while parked at the first pulloff. Don't leave your new cams in the car.

By Eric Krantz
May 11, 2005

Can anyone provide better directions to "Falling Rock Boulder"? I can't see bolts on anything out trher but the regular routes.

from the site directions: "There is a large bolted boulder on the northwest side of the canyon." ...and... "Find this boulder near the North Canyon Rim in between the parking area and the downclimbing chimney. "

I've found a large "candidate" boulder, w/ fist crack up the middle and really smooth high east side, that would make some good top rope climbs (if you're up to it), but I don't remember seeing anchors on top. This boulder is below the overhanging section of the North Canyon wall. Also, does anyone have info on the bolted routes on this overhanging section?

By Mikel Cronin
May 8, 2008

Important access issue!
This it to inform all climbers that have or are planning on accessing Victoria Canyon by way of Dark Canyon to boulder or climb NO MORE ACCESS THIS WAY! PRIVATE PROPERTY! It is trespassing if you go in this way no matter where you park. There is another way in by way of Sheridan Lake road when the USFS road opens on May 15th. For more information you can email me through this site.

By jpferb
From: RAPID CITY, SD
Aug 27, 2009

Does anyone know anything about the bolted route about 25 ft climbers right of "Getting the Bob". this route follows the arete to chains about 10ft below the top. Thanks

By Mikel Cronin
Oct 16, 2009

To whom may know
I am putting out a new guide book for Black Hills Limestone due spring 2010. It will include Spearfish, VC and looking at Falling Rock. I do not know the routes for Falling Rock, if anybody can help me out that would be great. This book will have pics of pretty much every wall, not the hand drawn topos like the past. Plese email if you have some input.
Mike