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Cleveland Route 

Cleveland Route 

5.10+ X

   

FA: Pete Cleveland 1967
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10c/d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 401 page views

Submitted By: Christian B. Baird on Nov 30, 2007


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Climbing above the 2nd bolt on Cleveland Route. Ph...


Description 

Climb protectable crack then up'n right to knobs and 1st bolt. considerable 5.10 off bolt 15' to jug yellow hold, then still 10-15 feet to second bolt on lower angle shoulder. have a ready for running belayer, thanks travis!


Protection 

Two bolts.



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By Darin Limvere
Administrator
Nov 1, 2007

There's also a piton that can be clipped before traversing to the first bolts.

By randy baum
Jul 15, 2008

X rating is not deserved. Falls at the crux are safe and very clean for slab/face.

By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Jul 21, 2008

I'll have to say the "X" rating is spot on. There are several places where ground fall is possible on this route. Yes the crux is reasonably well protected but a fall getting to the first bolt may well be very tragic. Crystals do break in the Needles on well traveled routes.

By rgold
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Sep 25, 2008

This sounds like the Barber Route, not the Cleveland Route. Neither way originally had any bolts, and there were a number of ascents of the Barber Route in its original boltless condition. John Bragg and I made one such ascent in the early seventies, I think. The Cleveland Route diagonaled right across the face after the initial moves and has, as far as I know, never been repeated on the lead.

By Dave Rone
From: Eau Claire, Wis
Sep 26, 2008
rating: 5.10+ R

Rich,
This is a similar description to the Cleveland route on Super Pin and I believe your observations about those routes are correct.

There are some similarities in the photo even, but this is describing the Cleveland route on Hairy Pin . . .

And I would agree with the 'X' rating, I mistakenly selected 'R' and haven't figured out how to change it.