BETA PHOTO: Topping out on Barber's route. Tricouni to the rig...
Description
From the base of the north side of Superpin (the side facing Cathedral Spires) climb up a dirty vegetated crack into a chimney. Go up a chimney and step left onto a comfortable stance on a ledge between Superpin and Tent Peg. Alternatively, the ledge can also be reached from the other side, by a short scramble from the landing between Tricouni and Superpin. From the ledge take a step across the chimney onto Superpin. Sling a flake (or place a large nut behind it), go up, clip a bolt and pull the crux bulge. Continue on fun but run out 5.7 crystals to a pair of bolts on the right. From the bolts a finishing section of 5.8 face climbing leads to the top.
The R-rating is given because the route has a potential for a serious 40-50ft fall (possibly smashing into a slab) just below the pair of bolts.
From the pull off by the End Pin, walk down along the road, roughly 10 yards past the trail for Tricouni Nail. Locate a faint trail going down from the road. A short walk down the trail leads to the flat area by the starting chimney at the base of Superpin.
The best way to get off the Superpin is to drop one end of the rope on the west side of the Pin (towards the start of the climb), and the other to the east side, to the landing between the Superpin and Tricouni Nail. Rap the west side and clean the route while the belayer holds the east end of the rope. There is a small groove on top of Superpin, which makes this rappel very safe. Do not leave any slings on top. Thanks to Dave Groth for the rappel beta.
Protection
Few 48" slings, 1 quickdraw for the bolt at the crux, 24" sling to equilize a pair of bolts higher up.
Chris -- going between 1st bolt at the crux and the pair of bolts higher up is R. It's not particularly hard but it gets your attention and whipping from there will definitely hurt. It's also little tall between the bolts and the top but after the first runout you hardly notice.
The R rating could be debated. But I agree with Kris. To fall from right below the second and third bolt would result in some type of injury. At least the first bolt is bomber.
Hi Randy, the "R" rating for this route (or any other; see discussion under Vertigo where I got my ass royally chewed :)) is not written in stone. I think difference between "PG13" and "R" is rather subtle and "R" can be a matter of perception, which may vary depending on climber's ability. I guess I'd give "R" to a route with a possible fall, in which, even if all gear holds, the climber may get seriously injured. That's how I understand "R" for Superpin. I am pretty sure though Barber or Cleveland would not bother with these ratings.
By Brent Kertzman From: Black Hills, SD Jul 21, 2008 rating: 5.10a/b X
The Barber route on Super Pin doesn't see much traffic due to the fact that the runout after the crux is 5.8 X. In my opinion the route is definitely a candidate for an "X" rating. A death fall is possible before gaining the second bolt. To me this equates to "X". Paul Duval died recently from a 30' or less fall while rappelling at Moonlight Ridge. You can debate this all you want but I believe many locals will concur with me on this.
Brent, how about I update the description and clarify what I mean by "R" ? I agree that the possible huge fall from the second bolt (bolts), although not a ground fall, could be very nasty. I think this should be agreeable to everybody regardless of their opinion on differences between "PG13", "R", or "X".
Superpin
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