This route starts at the high point between Superpin and Tent Peg. Climb the obvious wide crack. At the end of the crack, traverse right around to the other side of the spire. This is easy at first then more difficult (use the force if necessary--it worked for me). The route finishes up a short but unprotected face.
Be mindful of the way your rope is running. You'll need to place a long runner when you least want to.
A one rope rappel will get you back to the ground.
Protection
Medium to large cams for the beginning and smaller pieces for the traverse. There is a bolt anchor at the top.
Fun route. Nuts and large cams (Camalot #3) down low in the crack. Small cams (Camalot .3-.4) in the seam to protect the final face climb. Solid anchors.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jul 30, 2006 rating: 5.8 PG13
The climb may also start from the West side up some rather dank and mossy cracks for 10 or 15 meters. This involves a 5.8 move to stand up, then 5.6 from there. You climb up to get on the better and cleaner rock where the formation starts looking like a pin & where the route officially begins. This beginning may require some judgment and skill to protect and climb safely. Despite its 5.7 rating it is probably not the best lead for a beginner. The top has room for 2 "Au Cheval."
I climbed this in late May '06 and it still had old rusty anchors. They must be new as of shortly after then, according to the pictures. Excellent route. Be solid at the grade to lead.
By joelhagan From: Rapid City, SD Mar 5, 2007 rating: 5.7 PG13
This was my first trad lead! Great to be out in early March...already my 6th needles climbing day of the year. I slung the first flake and ran it out to the top, would have felt more comfortable had I put at least one nut before the final arete. I placed a small nut, a #3 and #4 cam in the crack and single length runner on the first flake.
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