M & M's 

FA:  Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.7 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 90 feet Views: 169 page views Submitted By: John Gunnels on Sep 4, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Derek "Nutz" Suhr scans beautiful crystals looking...

Description 

In all my years of climbing in the Needles, I have never seen anyone climb this route. Too bad... 'cause it's beautiful. Even though it's "just a 7", the opening moves have a bit of a bouldery flavor. After topping the small "pinnacle", clip the first old bolt and make a couple delicate moves to the first of several jugs. Clip the second old bolt and move through the crux up and right through a few sloping holds. Keep your EYES OPEN for the third, relatively new BEEFY bolt that appears just as your nerves begin to rattle. Two options exist to finish. Either rappel from the first set of old 1/4 anchors with weathered slings, or continue past the bulge through unprotected knobs to a newer set of bolts and slings. A single 60m rope will reach the ground from the first anchors... but I'm not sure about the upper rappel station. (Thunder and lightning forced an early retreat...)

Location 

Immediately right of "Better Than Pool & Pie" you'll see all kinds of tourists admiring the "small waterfall". M & M's begins on the arete just right of this "water feature".

Protection 

2 old, rusted 1/4" button heads and one new 3/8" BEEFY bolt!

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THERE they are...