Michael Johnson, on site free solo just after the ...
Description
Next Rock over from Pieces of Eight. Starts in the middle of the face following the bolts up and right and then back up and left.
This route starts steep and stays fairly sustained but the stances are good for clipping the bolts. It is a full grade harder than Pieces of Eight but just as fun.
Follow the first 3 bolts up and slightly right. There may be a fourth bolt higher up right but I usually move up and left to the next bolt. You can move up and left to the tree and sling it and I think you can get some pieces in the horizontal crack. The last bolt is up and left, then climb to the top and belay.
Anchors may have been added to the top but in the past we have gone down the gully to the south slightly towards the lake and around to the anchors on Pieces of Eight.
Protection
5-6 bolts, some tcu's or cams can be placed and a small tree can be slung.
Add CommentComments on All That Glitters is Gold (AKA For A Snickers)
This route was originally lead by me in the late 70's with no pro until you were close to 20 feet off the ground and had done the hard move. It was only my second first ascent. It was later bolted over by Pete Delanoy. He offered to chop them but I told him not to worry. The name we gave was For A Snickers as that was my "reward" if I got up it. Not falling before I drilled the first bolt was my real reward. I remember that Mark Jacobs watched me as I drilled it. He had just finished bouldering somewhere in the area.
Eric, pleasant suprise to read your commentary on "For a Snickers". I recall watching the action, and repeating the route a week or so later. With all the talk about Needles style, it was rare to see someone putting up a hard new route. Few stepped out of the shadow cast by Gill & Cleavland, into the sun. They set the bar so high, it made it easier to sit on the porch.
A bold, traditional classic. In the same league as Barber's Cornflake & Black's Beau Visage. Although the "safest" of the three?
By John Gunnels From: Gillette, WY Jul 16, 2006 rating: 5.10c
Did this route with my Queen for the first time today. It is at least a full grade harder than "Pieces of Eight"... 10c maybe?... and MUCH more fun. VERY bold FA... kudos, Eric.
Fairly new anchors... NO CHAINS... so scramble down to the anchors on "Pieces of Eight".
Dam - Back Side
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