Toni Brumbaugh leading, Cheryl Strege belaying fro...
Description
Start at the beginning of the Wiessner Chimney, scramble up the ramp/flake to the 2/3 bolt beefy belay. Move out left and up past 3 bolts. At the 3rd bolt head right for the hanging dihedral and clip the fourth bolt. Stem up the dihedral placing the stopper and alien on the way to the last bolt at the bulge. You can back this up with TCUs and then run it to the top. Great route, great exposure, long. Someone should replace the bolts as they are standard old school needles bolts.
Protection
4 Bolts, Stopper, Alien or very small TCU, another bolt with some TCUs to backup.
I did this last Saturday and if you start from the ground, there are 17 bolts. When you start on top of the flake at the 2/3 bolt hanging belay, there are 13 bolts to the top. Great climb!
Henry Barber is coming to town to give a slide show on Sunday August 8th at the Elks Theatre in downtown Rapid City at 7:00pm. Come share an evening with a climbing icon who has been climbing all around the world for over 35 years and continues to do so today. Both Henry and The Elks Theatre have made this very easy to happen. It is being held in the main theatre and the admission is only $5 at the door. Following the slide show there will be a meeting conserning climbing in the Needles,(one of his favorite places). Come to meet him and hear what he has to say and if you have something to say about the Needles, come say it. Come meet other climbers from our community who you may not have met before and lets all try to learn more about each other while we discuss this.The magazines will be covering the event. Adventure Sport has provided us with their new store site as a meeting place. It is at 922 main street in the old Maytag building behind Knecht's lumber yard. Bring your own chair for the meeting. I hope to see you at both events. Eric Sutton.
Toni,The photos of you are actually on the route Rocking Harder 5.10d. The original Hard Rocker 5.9+ starts in the same place as Rocking Harder but at about 40' up moves right into the water groove with the finger crack and requires some clean gear placements.
So you are saying I led a 5.10d. Hmm...while that is great for my ego, I'd say that there were no 5.10 moves, much less any 5.10d moves on that climb. I'd say it was a solid 5.9+ climb. I don't have a guidebook for Sylvan, so if anyone else can clarify, it'd be appreciated.
Toni,Checkout the most recent version of the "Poor Persons Guide to the Black Hills". That book lists Rocking Harder as 5.10+. Maybe the holds have grown and it has become easier. Only one short business section over the final buldge. Allow yourself some style points.
Inner Outlet
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