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Youbet Jorasses
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Birth Control 
Foreplay 
Inner Course 
Nutcracker Suite 

Inner Course 

5.4

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.4 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 140 feet
Views: 422 page views

Submitted By: Paul Huebner on Jul 9, 2003


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Byron leading up the route.


Description 

After passing through the damp tunnel take a left and walk up the trail until you encounter a private road and residence. Take the trail just before the residence that heads off to your right. As the trail descends take the 3rd turnoff to your right. This is a very popular climb and you can usually see others climbing Inner Course or the 5.8 climb called Foreplay, which goes up a water wash immediately to your right once you enter the narrow cleft between the Youbet Jorasses and Outer Outlet formations. Just a bit further up from Foreplay a very large boulder blocks the trail. This is the start of the climb and the belayer should stay below it but the leader must scramble to the top of the boulder where he or she will encounter the first bolt on this impressive looking line. There are 7 bolts to clip and you might want to climb slightly to your left as you proceed higher. Just above the last bolt, there is a nice horn which you should sling with a double runner. Then you need to traverse up and to the right where you'll see a set of old bolts (2 slings were girth-hitched through them when I repeated the climb this past June 2003). Newer anchors are a little further to your right. Your second will appreciate it if you provide a directional runner at the old bolts but be prepared for some heinous rope drag when you belay. You need 2 ropes for the rappel.


Protection 

There are 7 bolts and you should have a couple of double runners, one to sling a horn above the bolts and one to clip to an old set of bolts on the summit to provide a directional for your second. There are newer bolts with chains a little to the right of the old set.



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Picture exhibiting the knobby nature of this climb.

BETA PHOTO: Picture exhibiting the knobby nature of this climb...

View of the valley behind Sylvan Lake from the belay atop Inner Course.

View of the valley behind Sylvan Lake from the bel...


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By wayniak
Jul 24, 2005
rating: 5.5

Fun. Create intro to the area's rock. Bonus: The summit view helpful beta for other climbs/features in the area

By 4runner4fun
From: Black Hawk, SD
Feb 27, 2007

This is a killer climb. It's one of my favorites behind the dam of Sylvian. I would highly suggest to try this one out if you are back in the area.