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Hornsby's Rock
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Pestilence 
Way It Is, The 

The Way It Is 

5.9

   

FA: Brent Kertzman and Scott VanOrman '90
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 124 page views

Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 26, 2002


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Description 

On the northwest side of Hornsby's, The Way It Is is the right route of the two bolted lines. Climb through the bolts which are often closely spaced (two are a couple of feet apart). Fixed anchors and a one rope rappel to get off.


Protection 

bolted route, fixed anchors at the top



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By John Klooster
Oct 8, 2005
rating: 5.9

First bolt is a spinner and second bolt is hanging out of the hole.

By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Feb 9, 2008
rating: 5.8

We found there to be problems with the gauging size of both styles of Rawl 5/16" bolts. We had two new 5/16" bits that were sized correct. Thus there are two bolts of dubious quality close together near the bottom. You have my blessing to replace the first two bolts with one bolt near the second location. Oh the problems with hand drilling in the transitional era.

Based on the fact that the bolts were drilled on the lead from free stances, I'm not real certain how this route got catergorized as a sport route. The route makes a safe stepping stone for beginning leaders. The original rating was 5.8 and still seems right in that ballpark.