I'm suggesting Old People's Dome be added because it has three of the most enjoyable and moderate long routes in the Outlet area (Creeping Senility, 5.6R; Aging Gracefully, 5.7 and Gericrawl, 5.9). All three are generally well bolted, but also provide an opportunity to use one or two pieces of clean pro. In fact, clean pro is necessary to protect the crux on Gericrawl. The start for all 3 climbs is always in the shade but note, the first bolt for each climb is 15-20 feet off of the ground. All three climbs also go to the same intermediate bolt/chain anchor below the true summit. Very exposed, but easy scramble will get you to the true summit where a new bolt/black webbing anchor is located. Two ropes are required for rapping from either anchor system.
Getting There
After passing through the tunnel a few feet west of the north end of Sylvan Lake, take a sharp left and follow narrow track to a private road and residence. Just before reaching the residence, take the trail to your right and continue to descend this trail past Outer Outlet. After passing Outer Outlet descend and angle to the northeast towards a shaded and somwhat hidden by vegetation domed spire. You'll see a white birch tree at its base. The three climbs are all within a few feet of one another on the shaded wall just behind this tree. Creeping Senility is just left of the tree and Aging Gracefully is on the right and right next to the tree. Gericrawl is just downslope a few more feet.
This is one of three great routes on Old People's Dome, which is located just northwest of the back side of Outer Outlet. Basically, go down the same trail that leads to the back side of Outer Outlet and the Conn Diagonal climb but then turn to the left and continue downhill on a well worn trail that leads to a tall dome shaped spire. The climb is just left of double white birch tree. The first bolt is about 20 feet off of the deck but can be eas...[more]
It is possible to continue on to the true summit of this rock--a very large, rather flat summit with a great view (imagine that in the black hills!). This last little pitch is low fifth class. There is another rap anchor on the true summit which looks fairly new--but when I was up there this last weekend, I thought the bolts looked kinda funky (not tightened properly and wobbly in their holes) so I opted to downclimb back to the lower anchor and rap from there.
By Dakota Kid From: Rochester Hills, MI Jul 7, 2006
I climbed this with my wife Karyn Kozo and HJ Schmidt on July 4 -- we rapped off the top bolts (2 ropes). Think they must have been okay or H would not have used them. I rapped first, and thought about the anchors on the airy way down GeriCrawl.
Nice climb BTW -- only the second Karyn and I have done other than practice top roped climbs.
Several years ago we climbed a trad line between Creeping Senility and Aging Gracefully. There was a moderate amount of gear on it and probably went around 5.9. ANy name to this?
Lenore Sobota and I rapped off of the summit anchor system on 07/06/07. The bolts looked fine and had a double black web threaded through them with 2 rap rings. Another party of three rapped off the system right before I led Creeping Senility to the summit.
Kevin, I don't know about any trad route between Creeping Senility and Aging Gracefully, but Gericrawl has several old bolts and takes gear at its 5.9+ crux. It's located just a few feet to the right of Aging Gracefully.