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Buck Shot Eyes and a Purple Heart 
Kamps Crack 
Summer Lovin' 

Buck Shot Eyes and a Purple Heart 

5.10+

   

FA: Paul Piana '90s
Type: Sport
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 171 page views

Submitted By: Eric Krantz on May 30, 2004


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Buckshot Eyes and a Purple Heart


Description 

The directions to get to Bell Tower take you to the base of this climb. Look for the arrowhead flake. The climb starts of the left edge of the arrowhead and goes to a bolt and then a piton up to the left. Follow the seam left then right again, over a bulge, clipping 4 more bolts to the anchors. After the last bolt it's runout to the anchors but the climbing is easier. This route is a steep little-crystal pincher, with a few good holds in the seams. There is a 2nd pitch but we didn't do it, according to Curt it's terrible and unfinished after 2 bolts, so exercise caution. The name for this route comes from a Tom Waits tune, "Short Leave", and that's important to know.


Protection 

5-6 quickdraws w/ chain anchors



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Adam Fruh on Buck Shot Eyes and a Purple Heart.  Notice the telltale mustard-yellow arrowhead.

Adam Fruh on Buck Shot Eyes and a Purple Heart. N...


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By Eric Krantz
Jun 3, 2004

Brent, do you have any info on the 2nd pitch? Also, the song name is "Shore Leave", sorry.