Needle's Eye 

When you get to the fixed pitons long runner both of them or the rpoe drag will get you. If you long runner both pitons the rope will run a lot smoother.

Screamers are probably a good idea on the pins as well. They weren't great last time I was there, and a fall on the tricky 5.8 moves above them would be catastrophic if they failed.

Also, I know at least Rich Goldstone was involved in the first ascent. There is a direct start straight from the parking lot that is easy 5.10 with one bolt that joins the normal route at the shoulder. Done this way, this is one long pitch.

You are correct, Rich Goldstone did the first free ascent of the Needles Eye along with Don Storjohann. The direct start from the parking lot was first done by Renn Fenton. Vern Phinney didn't know that Renn did it first when he did the route and placed the bolt. Now Dennis Horning did the real scary route of going to the top of the eye itself and exiting towards the summit. This route is real scary, if you feel brave go for it. To lead it once was enough for me.

But the First ascent of the Spire itself goes to Ray Harris and Lavern Emery who drilled a bolt line on the west face. They drilled the holes and placed 1/2 inch sleeves into the rock. So if you want to aid the route go to the hardware store and buy some 1/2 inch machine bolts and just screw them in. This aid route ad been climbed free. I did the FFA with Kevin Bein and Barbara Devine back in 1979.

It is possible to sling a flaky horn halfway between the belay and the pitons. Whether this would hold or not is questionable, but it's better than nothing.

That flake is totally worthless, it is cracked most of the way. I don't even stand on it. The easiest climbing of the climb is getting to the pins, it's just that your are getting a little ways off the ground. Just remember the moves do get harder as you get higher with the last moves to the pins being about 5.6

It may, or may not be worthless. I've seen worse withstand falls, but I'm not testing it.

Dennis Horning did that lead? I've seen a photo of a climber stemming the eye chimney- same climb? Is there any pro? Looked pretty wild to me!

So how hard is the route that goes up through the eye and then goes to the climber's left? I did this on my way through there a couple years ago, thinking it was the regular route. It went as one long pitch from the bottom, and I think there were two bolts along the way. the stems in the eye were cool, but man, was that thing run out. Definitely felt harder than 5.8(?)

Great pitch, but big crowds can come out of nowhere to swarm your belayer, even at sunset. The horn half-way up is junk, I think I could rip it off with my bare hands without even loosing my balance, still I tied it off for humor (and my partner did gawk at it).
One rope gets you down just fine.

What is the route that starts on the south side, right in the parking lot?

Its the unnamed Renn Fenton route that is the other submitted route on the formation. Very fun 5.10ish. Did that awful bolt ever get replaced?

Thanks, Andrew. The first bolt looks newer, but the two pitons are all you have up top.

Awesome route. Be damn sure you can lead 5.10 in the Needles before you touch this(but it is 5.8 climbing). Tried to get a cam around the corner at the horizontal to back up the pitons but it was in crumbly rock, probably wouldn't have held. I didn't see a place for a TCU in the seam. Pins are rusty and will probably break on a fall. Screamers are a good idea, if you are an ice climber and have them.
Maybe to stay true to the first accent and stay relatively safe, the pins should be replaced with new ones?
No need for two pitches, but be aware, there was a bit of rope drag at the top. I used a 70m 9.4 rope and started on the back side. Plenty of length for the rap to the parking lot.

Awesome route! Did it in one pitch, and even though I was very liberal with long slings, I had horrible rope drag by the top...5.8 is a lot harder and scarier with a 50lb monkey on your back! Probably an 'R' route but not 'X'. Long distances between good gear but it is definitely there. The starting chimney is easy to protect with one traverse out to the arete that is exposed/runout. Once there, you can throw in a #3 and #5 Camalot. I slung a horn on the arete(bit cracked, but why not....) and up higher slung a crystal with a large cam hanging from the sling to make sure the sling did not pop up and off. To the left of the first piton, you can place a very good red tri-cam in a pocket underneath a roof, and back up the second pin with an absolutely Bomber blue alien. It's runout to the top but that alien would definitely hold a fall.

Hey guys, since history has come up here, some of you might find my account of the "first" ascent of the Needle's Eye in 1964 and the ensuing discussion on SuperTopo to be interesting.