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DescriptionMiddle Earth can be a very confusing area to visit. It is climbed in much less often than the Outlets, so expect solitude on most routes. Many routes require the better part of a rope length, requiring two ropes to rappel. Some good climbs are Hrum Hroom and Three Rings for the Elven Kings (very popular though). Getting ThereFollow the signs from Hill City to Sylvan Lake (same as the Outlets). Hike around the lake heading north from the car. Walk through the Outlets until reaching the field north of Outer Outlet. From here, walk up the hill on the trail using switchbacks. At this hill crest is where Middle Earth begins. A left up another hill brings one to Hrum Hroom and Quickbeam. Most routes are located by heading down the hill from this crest and heading up gullies between rock formations. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Earth:
Enting 5.5 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Fanghorn Hills
Quickbeam 5.5 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Fanghorn Hills
Riddle "Original" 5.6 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet Riddle
Hrum Hroom 5.7 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Fanghorn Hills
Three Rings for the Elven Kings 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Erebor
Goldberry Lane 5.11 Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Ered Lithui
Featured Route For Middle Earth
Hrum Hroom 5.7 SD : Custer State Park : ... : Fanghorn Hills
This route is located shortly after you crest the hill on the right. You'll see Goldberry Lane on Ered Lithui on the left at the top of the hill. Quickbeam is on the right, just before you crest the hill. There's a large boulder (rock fin) in the middle at the crest to confuse you a bit. Use your alpine route finding skills :-) I used John Pages green book ("Recommened Climbs...") for the approach.Crux is getting to the first bolt and maybe a mov...[more] Browse More Classics in SD |