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Station 13
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East Chimney 
East Chimney Variation 
Spooky, station 13 SE arete 
Superstition 

East Chimney 

5.7 PG13

   

FA: Herb and Jan Conn, July 1949
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8- [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 150 feet
Views: 130 page views

Submitted By: Tyson S Arp on Apr 11, 2007


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Will Becker starting his way up into the intimidat...


Description 

Ascend the Chimney on the east face and set a belay by slinging the sub-summit to the right. This pitch is easier and less awkward than it appears from the ground. Make sure your anchor is bomber since the next pitch is committing and the protection tricky.

For the second pitch, step across the top of the chimney and then move around to the right into the "Conn Cavity". Follow this awkward groove to the top. Protection can found just after the step across the chimney and in the Conn Cavity itself if you're not too scared to stop and place it!


Location 

If you can find Station Thirteen, locating this route will be easy as it is the most obvious line on the eastern side (it faces the other Cathedral Spires).

Descent from the top requires two ropes.


Protection 

A standard rack will suffice. The first pitch takes a variety of sizes, while small gear will be most useful on the second pitch.



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By Tyson S Arp
Apr 11, 2007

You'll find a few more photos of the route here.