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Spire Four
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Little Lark Crack 
South Tower Conn Route? 
Sprire Four 
two EX squared 

South Tower Conn Route? 

5.8

   

FA: Herb & Jan Conn
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 2 pitches
Views: 589 page views

Submitted By: Eric Krantz on Jun 13, 2004


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Aaron rapping off South Tower as we raced to get J...


Description 

Enter 3-4 gully, scramble up until you get to the last corridor on the right before the classic Spire 4 chimney. Scramble to end of corridor, u-turn, scramble up some more along the ledge. We set a belay here. Directly across the corridor you will see a piton where the climbing starts. Then up and left to a small ledge and back (right) into the crack. Follow crack (small gear), past an old 1/4" rusty, and a nice new black hanger to a large horn. We set a belay at the horn. From there it is a short climb to the top.

On Spire 4 side is a large horn with slings for rap. (Bring at least 12' or more of webbing if you want to leave some).


Protection 

Small & medium cams, nuts. There are 1-2 old bolts to clip and 1 good new bolt.



Add Photo Photos of South Tower Conn Route?
Looking back at the roomy belay ledge after starting pitch 2 by stepping across the void to clip the piton.

Looking back at the roomy belay ledge after starti...


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By Aaron Costello
From: Rapid City, SD
Aug 1, 2005
rating: 5.8

Based on the old piton we found on the 4-5 gully side of the crack, I would guess the Conn's might have started here. I was a follower on this route, and to lead it would have taken a lot of balls. The leader said he wouldn't lead it again. We rapped off the E. Face of South Tower, using the one good bolt, and the spinney black one (after replacing the slings, leaving a biner and an aluminum rap ring). A two 60m rope rappel brought us to the ground between the route start and 'Take a Left.' If you weigh less than 150 lbs., rope stretch might not get you to the bottom so direct yourself right and set up another rappel at the ledge you see between the S. Tower and the shorter spire. A good linkup would be to rap off the north anchors, and climb the last pitch of spire 4. Ahh yeah.

By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Jun 15, 2007
rating: 5.7 R

Hey Aaron! How's it going man? I was said leader Aaron is referring to, and yup, it was scary. Maybe I am just a wuss, as the Conn's did it 50 years before with tennies, chocks and a 50 foot rope. Found out later by re-reading the Piana guide that after that big horn you can sling in the middle of the second pitch, you should go left and there are supposedly 2 bolts to climb past. I didn't see them, and went right. It was basically 40 or 50 feet of unprotected crystal pinching on somewhat crumbly rock to the top that way. That would sting on the way down if you slip or something busts off. Anyway, I will post a couple pics of the climb. Good times. Hope to head out to the hills again this fall.