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Balcony Point
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North Crack 

North Crack 

5.6

   

FA: Barry Corbet, Jake Breitenbach, Charles Plummer '56
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 250 feet
Views: 886 page views

Submitted By: Peter Gram on Sep 8, 2002


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Confronting the steep bulge at the top of the crac...


Description 

This is a great climb. Start by climbing the first 2 pitches of the east face route on Spire Two. Then, when at the saddle between Spire Two and Balcony Point, climb up to the obvious beautiful splitter crack that goes almost to the summit of Balcony Point. Climb this, the hardest move being pulling through a bulgy crack to the top of the pillar.


Protection 

Standard Rack. The 3rd pitch is a perfect crack that eats up gear.



Photos of North Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Looking back to the cozy belay at the end of the pitch two, while Angela arp and Matt Misfeldt cheer me on.

Looking back to the cozy belay at the end of the p...


Comments on North Crack Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Tyson S Arp
Sep 19, 2006
rating: 5.6

A very fun climb! Definitely as intimidating as it looks, but very well protected. Try not to add to the DNA collection as you jam the very sharp crack near the top!

Click here for more photos and a trip report.

By joelhagan
From: Rapid City, SD
Jul 9, 2007
rating: 5.7

What a great finish after climbing Spire 2. This is definitely a repeater...next time I plan on getting over the bulge without using my knee..haha

By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Dec 18, 2008
rating: 5.8 PG13

Great route... Great position... Great Fun! If Classic Crack on Inner Outlet and the Doody Direct on the Gnomon are 5.8 then this route is 5.8. Beware of the awkward stance at the new anchors.