Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Station 13
Show routes:
Select route...
East Chimney 
East Chimney Variation 
Spooky, station 13 SE arete 
Superstition 

East Chimney Variation 

5.7

   

FA: Mark and Beverly Powell
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 150 feet
Views: 714 page views

Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jan 1, 2002


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Route with approach shown from atop Spire 2


Description 

Start at the base of the easy chimney on the east face. Climb to the top of the chimney and sink in a belay. Then look for a bolt on the face just to the left of the chimney. Traverse over and climb to the top on face holds. (This climb could probably be done as just one pitch).


Protection 

Standard Rack for first pitch. One bolt on the second pitch. Fixed anchors on top.



Add Photo Photos of East Chimney Variation
Pat Harris jammed in the crack on pitch one of the East Chimney Variation of Station 13

Pat Harris jammed in the crack on pitch one of the...

Joel Hagan on the first move of the second pitch.

Joel Hagan on the first move of the second pitch.


Add Comment Comments on East Chimney Variation
Show which comments
By John Klooster
Jan 17, 2005
rating: 5.7

This can be done as one pitch, if long runners are not used rope drag is horrid. I remember pulling slack to make the final moves to the summit. Beautiful summit, there was a person playing a reed flute in the picket fence area the day we did this route giving us a surreal needles experience.

By Scott Thalacker
Jun 3, 2006

For those who think the move to the bolt is a bit wiggy (because of the pretty big fall into the chimney), there is a solid nut placement a little right and just above the band you must step over to access the bolt.
You can one rope 60m rap this from the lower platform, but it's easier to two rope it from the summit.

By joelhagan
From: Rapid City, SD
Mar 28, 2007

There is one bolt on the second pitch, but I believe you can sling a horn and possibly place a nut after the bolt. This route could be done in one pitch, but because of the airy traverse left it may be safer to do it as two pitches to get over the mental crux.