Spire Two

BETA PHOTO: Spire Two as seen from the beginning of the Intern...

Description 

Spire Two is the second spire from the left when looking at the Cathedral Spires from the parking lot. This is a large spire, and it requires around 3 pitches to get to the top. This rock and Spire Four are probably the two most commonly climbed spires in the whole area. An excellent 5.6 route (mostly 5.3) climbs the east side.

Descend by rappelling from the summit following the East Face route. Two ropes are necessary except for the third pitch needs only one.

Getting There 

Follow trail #4 from the Cathedral Spires parking lot towards the spires. When the trail branches, the best way is to take the right branch and find the Spire Two-Three gully. Head up this gully (with Rubaiyat Spire at the bottom) and Spire Two is at the the top of the gully on the left. The most commonly climbed route on it is the East Face, and this is easily identified by a trampled area at the base of the route.

Another good way to get to this spot is to stay straight on the main trail and go around to the uphill side of the area. This rock is very near Station 13, which is at the top of the Spire Two-Three gully.

Featured Route For Spire Two

Jan and Jane Route 5.6 PG13  SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires

This is a very fun, mixed climb on Spire Two. This routes first ascensionists were warming up for the first manless ascent of Devil's Tower in 1952. I think this route is infinitely better than the standard Conn route as you get out of the gully and into the sun. P1. Start about 20 feet right of the Standard route start. The first piece of protection goes in about 20 feet off the ground. Continue climbing up with cracks to place gear in and ...[more]