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Spire Four

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Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue 
Little Lark Crack 
South Tower Conn Route? 
Sprire Four 
two EX squared 

Spire Four


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Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jul 9, 2002
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker
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Looking down on unknown climbers finishing East Gr...


Description 

Spire Four is the highest summit in the Cathedral Spires, and probably the most popular formation in the group. The view is spectacular, the rock is fantastic, the route unique, and the climbing superb. If you climb only one of the Cathedral Spires, this is the one to do.


Getting There 

Hike the Cathedral Spires trail around to the backside of the spires. Hike up the Gully between Spires 3 and 4. A short stretch of 4th class or possibly low 5th class leads to a high saddle between the spires - rope up if you feel uncomfortable.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Spire Four:
Sprire Four   5.4     Trad, 2 pitches, 210 feet   
South Tower Conn Route?   5.8     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   
Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue   5.10b     Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet   
Browse More Classics in Spire Four

Featured Route For Spire Four
Climbers on the route. Dave Groth, Nate Kuchen & Carl Hungus

two EX squared 5.12a  SD : Custer State Park : ... : Spire Four
NW face of spire #4. Huge wall obvious line to center dihedral thru roof. Start first 10B: pitch below center dihedral, climb face direct(0ne bolt) or shallow left facing corner( 2 varations). Pitch 2 11a: diahedral to roof, stance over the roof. Pitch 3 12a: vears left on to head wall to top of spire.Very well protected with good stances. Hard clibing is well protected.( 5 bolts on head wall)Several attempts with weather & hand drilling. P...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD


Photos of Spire Four Slideshow Add Photo
Probably a common scene for non-locals. Pulling out the Piana maps every 20 minutes to try to figure out what gulley we were in.

Probably a common scene for non-locals. Pulling o...

Climbers on Spire Four - taken from Spire Three.

Climbers on Spire Four - taken from Spire Three.

From Spire 5. "Hang a Right" is on the left, what's the big chimney on the right?

From Spire 5. "Hang a Right" is on the left, what'...


Comments on Spire Four Add Comment
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By Eric Krantz
Aug 31, 2004

Climbed the chimney system that contains Hang a Right at 4th Ave. I wasn't on the Hang a Right crack, I stayed in the back of the chimney, and crawled into the large flake on the left to set an anchor in the chockstones that have been slung sometime in the past. Went out the opposite side of the flake (away from Hang a Right, up the South Tower side) up a crack that petered out after maybe 40 feet. There was no protection past this. Climbed the big juggy face for maybe 40 feet before stepping back across to Spire 4. It was very loose in places (especially the 2nd pitch face). Beware the desk-sized wobbly stone halfway up the crack in the 2nd pitch. I have to admit I was lost. The climb was fun but the runout was loose, and I couldn't protect my 2nd after the crack ended (the 2nd pitch was a sideways horseshoe).