Looking down on unknown climbers finishing East Gr...
Description
Spire Four is the highest summit in the Cathedral Spires, and probably the most popular formation in the group. The view is spectacular, the rock is fantastic, the route unique, and the climbing superb. If you climb only one of the Cathedral Spires, this is the one to do.
Getting There
Hike the Cathedral Spires trail around to the backside of the spires. Hike up the Gully between Spires 3 and 4. A short stretch of 4th class or possibly low 5th class leads to a high saddle between the spires - rope up if you feel uncomfortable.
NW face of spire #4. Huge wall obvious line to center dihedral thru roof. Start first 10B: pitch below center dihedral, climb face direct(0ne bolt) or shallow left facing corner( 2 varations). Pitch 2 11a: diahedral to roof, stance over the roof. Pitch 3 12a: vears left on to head wall to top of spire.Very well protected with good stances. Hard clibing is well protected.( 5 bolts on head wall)Several attempts with weather & hand drilling. P...[more]
Climbed the chimney system that contains Hang a Right at 4th Ave. I wasn't on the Hang a Right crack, I stayed in the back of the chimney, and crawled into the large flake on the left to set an anchor in the chockstones that have been slung sometime in the past. Went out the opposite side of the flake (away from Hang a Right, up the South Tower side) up a crack that petered out after maybe 40 feet. There was no protection past this. Climbed the big juggy face for maybe 40 feet before stepping back across to Spire 4. It was very loose in places (especially the 2nd pitch face). Beware the desk-sized wobbly stone halfway up the crack in the 2nd pitch. I have to admit I was lost. The climb was fun but the runout was loose, and I couldn't protect my 2nd after the crack ended (the 2nd pitch was a sideways horseshoe).
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