2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
The first pitch pretty weel defines the climb, straight up the large, right-facing dihedral to its top. This pitch is 5.7. Follow a faintly defined arete another long pitch (you can break into 2 shorter ones) to the top. After the first lead, the route has many possible lines, but following the least resistance keeps the route at 5.7.
This route begins in the large dihedral 20 feet left of the start for Bitty Buttress route.
Standard rack; this can be done entirely with passive pro.
By Chris Zeller From: Boulder, CO Jul 25, 2012 rating: 5.85b16VI-HVS 4c
This route has potential but needs some major gardening. The route follows the dihedral but has lots of bushes and dirt. The line is very aestethic though. We did a bit of pruning just to get up it but it needs more work to earn the star it gets in Bob D'antino's book. I agree with his 5.8 rating. The second pitch (the one shared with A's Jax) is much cleaner and has a nice roof/chimney that looks much harder than it is.