The first pitch pretty weel defines the climb, straight up the large, right-facing dihedral to its top. This pitch is 5.7. Follow a faintly defined arete another long pitch (you can break into 2 shorter ones) to the top. After the first lead, the route has many possible lines, but following the least resistance keeps the route at 5.7.
This route begins in the large dihedral 20 feet left of the start for Bitty Buttress route.
Standard rack; this can be done entirely with passive pro.
|By Chris Zeller|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
This route has potential but needs some major gardening. The route follows the dihedral but has lots of bushes and dirt. The line is very aestethic though. We did a bit of pruning just to get up it but it needs more work to earn the star it gets in Bob D'antino's book. I agree with his 5.8 rating. The second pitch (the one shared with A's Jax) is much cleaner and has a nice roof/chimney that looks much harder than it is.