Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
South

Select Area...
Angel's Wings aka Devil's Wings 
Angel's Wings aka Devil's Wings, West Face 
Apostle, The 
Bongo Boulder 
Chimera 
Cubicle Crag 
Damascus 
Devil's Advocate 
Devil's Horns 
Devil's Pinkie (AKA South Pinnacle) 
Devil's Thumb 
Fatiron 
Fern Canyon 
First Advisor 
Flying Flatiron 
Goose, The 
Harmon Flatironette 
Harmon's East 
Isolation Rock 
Jamcrack Spire 
Keel, The 
Lost And Found 
Maiden, The 
Major Maroon Boulder 
Mars Block 
Matron, The 
Medusa 
Overhang Rock 
Penguin, The 
Pup, The 
Pyramid 
Saqqara 
Seal Rock 
Second Advisor 
Shadowfax 
Shanahan Crag 
Sibling, The 
Slab, The 
Sphinx, The 
Sunset Wall 
Terrain Boulders 
Third Advisor 
Tiny Tower 
Toddler Rock 
Tower Of The Moon 
Unknown Rock 
Upper Blues Boulders 
X Crack Boulder 

South 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.9611, -105.289 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 787,170
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri
Chance of a Thunderstorm
81° | 62°
Thunderstorm
73° | 56°
Rain
64° | 56°
Thunderstorm
74° | 59°
Thunderstorm
73° | 58°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: From The Slab, 4/11/02.
  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This section of the Flatirons holds some of the best climbing in the Flatirons, but it seems to be less crowded. For the purposes of this organization, this section extends from Bear Canyon to Eldorado Canyon. Great rocks such as the Maiden, Matron, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Seal Rock, and the Goose offer lower end difficulty climbs for beginner trad leaders and also more challenging trad lines. Excellent sport routes also can be found, some several pitches in length. The longest line in the area can be found here. There is plenty to explore here.


    Getting There 

    The approaches vary depending on where you're headed. For rocks like the Matron, take the South Mesa Trail head from the open space park on the way to Eldorado Canyon SP off CO Hwy 170. Otherwise, N. Shanahan trail from Table Mesa or Fern Canyon via the Mesa Trail from NCAR. See specific routes for exact directions.


    Access 

    Various of the Flatirons are closed for falcon nesting from Feb 1 up to July 31 and for bat nesting Apr 1 to Aug 31. Historically, some of these in this area have included The Matron, Towers of the Moon, Jam Crack Spire, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Jaws, The Fin, Fern Canyon, The Goose, The Goose Eggs, and possibly others.


    293 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',30],['3 Stars',70],['2 Stars',124],['1 Star',57],['Bomb',10]
    ['<=5.6',70],['5.7',22],['5.8',28],['5.9',28],['5.10',43],['5.11',25],['5.12',26],['5.13',10],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',5],['V2-3',19],['V4-5',10],['V6-7',4],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South:
    Tower of Power   V9 7C     Boulder, 20'   Terrain Boulders
    East Face/Fatiron   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches   Fatiron
    East Face North Side/Seal Rock   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 4 pitches, 800'   Seal Rock
    East Ridge   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches   The Matron
    North Face   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Trad, 5 pitches   The Maiden
    North Face   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   The Matron
    East Ridge   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches   The Maiden
    West Overhang   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches   The Maiden
    South Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   The Maiden
    Just Another Boy's Climb   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 100'   The Slab
    Chains of Love   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   Fern Canyon : Fiddlehead
    Undertow   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Slab
    Film Noir   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   The Slab
    Hasta La Hueco   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   The Maiden
    Snake Watching   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   Overhang Rock
    Honey Badger   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   Overhang Rock
    $00pr kr33m   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   The Slab
    s00kr33m   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   The Slab
    Choose Life   5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   Seal Rock
    Thunder Muscle   5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Seal Rock
    Browse More Classics in South

    Featured Route For South
    Colin Lantz - 3rd bolt clip.

    Violator 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c  CO : Flatirons : ... : Nebel Horn Ridge
    Violator is a long way up Fern Canyon and just right of the classic Ruby Slipper. Technical arete climbing, great positioning, and hard boulder problems define the route. Solo up the first 25 feet of low-angle 5.0 rock or place nut or two to protect this access. Steep bouldery moves climb out left past the first two bolts. Barn door arete moves climb past the third and fourth bolts. An awkward move takes the climbing onto the right side of the arete past the fifth...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Local Information for South
    Local Shops
    A true mountain shop, located in the shadow of Boulder's Flatirons.
    Gear that has the best chance of improving your outdoor experience.
    Closeouts and cosmetic 2nds at below wholesale prices.
    News
    Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
    Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   4
    Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4
    May 15 MP Mobile App: Partnered with Black Diamond and now Free   4
    May 12 New Feature: Improve This Page   3
    May 1 New Yosemite Bigwall Printed Guide Book Now Available 0

    [ Read All News ]
    Upcoming Events
    no events scheduled
    Photos of South Slideshow Add Photo
    Sumac season in the fall ...
    Sumac season in the fall ...
    Fern Canyon being saved by fire retardant.
    Fern Canyon being saved by fire retardant.
    The South and Central Flatirons can be a beautiful and lonely place...This image taken after a brief rain, just below the Sphinx.
    The South and Central Flatirons can be a beautiful...
    From left to right... The Tower of The Moon (small, shaded), the Jamcrack Spire, the Maiden, the Fatiron, The Devil's Thumb, the Flying Flatiron, and the Devil's Wings as viewed from the South-East on the Old Mesa Trail.
    From left to right... The Tower of The Moon (small...
    Bear Peak....
    Bear Peak....
    2/7/2003 from near Foothills Parkway and Arapahoe (Eisenhower School)
    BETA PHOTO: 2/7/2003 from near Foothills Parkway and Arapahoe ...
    The hike into the Southern Flatirons has beautiful Sumac in September and October! Photo by T. Bubb, 09/06.
    The hike into the Southern Flatirons has beautiful...
    Aerial view down Shadow Canyon.
    Aerial view down Shadow Canyon.
    Boulder from the First Flatiron, 5am July.
    Boulder from the First Flatiron, 5am July.
    Jamcrack Spire, Maiden, Fatiron, Devils Thumb, Flying Flatiron
    BETA PHOTO: Jamcrack Spire, Maiden, Fatiron, Devils Thumb, Fly...
    In October the trails through the South side of Boulder's Flatirons have a great color as the Bluestem grass and Sumac take on their autumn hue. Joseffa Meir enjoys the hike back from the Matron.
    In October the trails through the South side of Bo...
    Controlled burn out of control... rained ash on us on the Matron.
    Controlled burn out of control... rained ash on us...
    Bear Mountain and Devil's Thumb.
    Bear Mountain and Devil's Thumb.
    Sunset over Bear Peak.
    Sunset over Bear Peak.
    Delphinium nuttallianum on Shadow Canyon trail.
    Delphinium nuttallianum on Shadow Canyon trail.
    Penstemon secundiflorus on Shadow Canyon trail.
    Penstemon secundiflorus on Shadow Canyon trail.
    Flagstaff Fire, Bear Peak, 2012.
    Flagstaff Fire, Bear Peak, 2012.
    Malacosoma sp on Shadow Canyon trail.
    Malacosoma sp on Shadow Canyon trail.
     BH on FA of The Kid, Kid Boulders, South Mesa Trailhead Area.
    BH on FA of The Kid, Kid Boulders, South Mesa Tra...
    C-130 bomber doing work. From my place right before I bailed.
    C-130 bomber doing work. From my place right befor...
    BH on FA of Honey Maroon Overhang V8?, circa 1995.
    BH on FA of Honey Maroon Overhang V8?, circa 1995.
    Typical mid-August afternoon in the Flatirons.
    Typical mid-August afternoon in the Flatirons.
    Comments on South Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 7, 2014
    By Pinklebear
    Jun 14, 2010

    June 2010 new-route application through the Flatirons Climbing Council's Fixed Hardware Review Committee: flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>>

    Please click on the above link to submit comments on the proposed climb. The deadline closes June 15; this is the only route submitted this cycle. There will be a public meeting held June 23, Wednesday, at 7:30 p.m. at The Spot gym, Boulder.

    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Jun 14, 2010

    This pitch is simply too long. A line must be drawn somewhere. :)

    By Pinklebear
    Jun 14, 2010

    True that! But you can stand on a little perch at 50 feet and catch your breath....

    By Pinklebear
    Oct 12, 2010

    The Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council will hold its public meeting Wednesday, October 20, at 6 p.m. at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado, to discuss and vote on applications for the autumn 2010 cycle. Anyone interested is invited to come participate and cast votes for the three proposals, which can be found here: flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>>

    By Pinklebear
    Jun 24, 2011

    The Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council will hold its public meeting Wednesday, July 6, at 7 p.m. at The Spot Gym, Boulder, Colorado, to discuss and vote on applications for the June 2011 cycle. Anyone interested is invited to come participate and cast votes for the three proposals (two of which are on the Slab), which can be found here: flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>>.
    You can also leave comments on the proposed applications at the above link.

    By Pinklebear
    Jul 24, 2012

    As of today, July 24, the fire-closure boundaries have been moved west from the Mesa Trail, allowing access to many of the formations formerly affected by the Flagstaff Fire closure. More info and an updated closure map here from OSMP: www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&view=ar>>>

    A reminder to everyone to stay well clear of the closure and burn areas as you head back in to climb. Enjoy!

    By Pinklebear
    Aug 6, 2012

    There is an application for a new climb on the south side of the Maiden, our only application for the August 2012 cycle of the Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council. Details can be found at the link below; the public meeting and vote will be held Wednesday, September 5 at 6:30 p.m. at The Spot gym (thespotgym.com), Boulder, Colorado. The deadline for the next cycle is January 1, 2013, though applications should be submitted in advance if possible.

    flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>>

    By Pinklebear
    Aug 19, 2012

    Please note that the application for the Hueco Wall, south face of the Maiden, has been updated to include a possible third pitch, which would have been brought up at the public meeting in any case. You can still view and comment on the application at flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/2012/08/06/august-201>>>

    The public vote and meeting is September 5, 6:30 p.m. at The Spot gym in Boulder, Colorado.

    By Pinklebear
    Sep 10, 2012

    There is an application for a new climb on the south face of Seal Rock, the first application for the autumn 2012 cycle of the Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council (www.flatironsclimbing.com). Details can be found at the link below; the public meeting and vote will be held some time early next year, details to be announced. This cycle closes January 1, 2013, though applications should be submitted well in advance.

    The application can be found at:
    flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>>

    By Pinklebear
    Nov 23, 2012

    A second application has been submitted for the Autumn 2012 cycle of the Flatirons Climbing Council's Fixed Hardware Review Committee, this one for the west face of Overhang Rock. Please visit flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>> to view the application in full, as well as comment on it. The public meeting and vote will be held 6:30 p.m. Wednesday January 16 at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado.

    By Pinklebear
    Dec 12, 2012

    There is an application for a second proposed new climb on the south face of Seal Rock, the final application for the autumn 2012 cycle of the Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council (www.flatironsclimbing.com), which closes January 1, 2013. Details can be found at the link below.The public meeting and vote will be held 6:30 p.m. Wednesday January 16 at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado.

    The application for this route, American Nouveau, can be found at:
    flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>>

    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Apr 27, 2013

    Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome.

    By Flatirons Climbing Council
    Aug 19, 2013

    One application has been submitted for the current cycle of the Flatirons Climbing Council's Fixed Hardware Review Committee application process: on the west face of Overhang Rock.

    You can visit flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>> to view it; please post comments below the application or submit them via email to fhrc@flatironsclimbing.org. The public meeting and vote will be held Wednesday, September 18, 6:30 p.m., at The Spot gym in Boulder, Colorado.

    By Flatirons Climbing Council
    Jan 7, 2014

    One application has been submitted for the current (January 2014) cycle of the Flatirons Climbing Council's Fixed Hardware Review Committee application process: on the west face of the Goose.

    You can visit flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>> to view it; please post comments below the application or submit them via email to fhrc@flatironsclimbing.org. The public vote and meeting will be held Wednesday, February 5, at 6:30 p.m. at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado.