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Angel Wings aka Devil's Wings 
Apostle, The 
Bongo Boulder 
Chimera 
Cubicle Crag 
Damascus 
Devil's Advocate 
Devil's Horns 
Devil's Thumb 
Devil's Wings, Eastern Slabs 
Devil's Wings, West Face 
Fatiron 
Fern Canyon 
First Advisor 
Flying Flatiron 
Goose, The 
Harmon Flatironette 
Harmon's East 
Isolation Rock 
Jamcrack Spire 
Keel, The 
Lost And Found 
Maiden, The 
Major Maroon Boulder 
Mars Block 
Matron, The 
Medusa 
Overhang Rock 
Penguin, The 
Pup, The 
Pyramid 
Saqqara 
Seal Rock 
Second Advisor 
Shadowfax 
Shanahan Crag 
Sibling, The 
Slab, The 
Sphinx, The 
Sunset Wall 
Terrain Boulders 
Third Advisor 
Tiny Tower 
Toddler Rock 
Tower Of The Moon 
Unknown Rock 
Upper Blues Boulders 
X Crack Boulder 

South 


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Lat, Long: 39.9611, -105.289 Map
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001

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Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>


From left to right... The Tower of The Moon (small...

Description 

This section of the Flatirons holds some of the best climbing in the Flatirons, but it seems to be less crowded. For the purposes of this organization, this section extends from Bear Canyon to Eldorado Canyon. Great rocks such as the Maiden, Matron, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Seal Rock, and the Goose offer lower end difficulty climbs for beginner trad leaders and also more challenging trad lines. Excellent sport routes also can be found, some several pitches in length. The longest line in the area can be found here. There is plenty to explore here.


Getting There 

The approaches vary depending on where you're headed. For rocks like the Matron, take the South Mesa Trail head from the open space park on the way to Eldorado Canyon SP off CO Hwy 170. Otherwise, N. Shanahan trail from Table Mesa or Fern Canyon via the Mesa Trail from NCAR. See specific routes for exact directions.


Access 

Various of the Flatirons are closed for falcon nesting from Feb 1 up to July 31 and for bat nesting Apr 1 to Aug 31. Historically, some of these in this area have included The Matron, Towers of the Moon, Jam Crack Spire, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Jaws, The Fin, Fern Canyon, The Goose, The Goose Eggs, and possibly others.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South:
Tower of Power   V9     Boulder, 20 feet   Terrain Boulders
East Face/Fatiron   5.4     Trad, 3 pitches   Fatiron
East Face North Side/Seal Rock   5.4     Trad, 4 pitches, 800 feet   Seal Rock
East Ridge   5.5     Trad, 3 pitches   The Matron
North Face   5.6 R     Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II   The Maiden
North Face   5.6     Trad, 3 pitches   The Matron
East Ridge   5.10     Trad, 5 pitches   The Maiden
West Overhang   5.11a     Trad, 2 pitches   The Maiden
Dream Street Rose   5.11b/c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   The Maiden
Fluorescent Gray   5.11c R     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Fern Canyon : East Ridge
South Crack   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   The Maiden
Just Another Boy's Climb   5.11d     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 100 feet   The Slab
Chains of Love   5.12b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   Fern Canyon : Fiddlehead
Undertow   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Slab
Film Noir   5.12c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet   The Slab
Hasta La Hueco   5.12d     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150 feet   The Maiden
Snake Watching   5.13a     Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Overhang Rock
$00pr kr33m   5.13-     Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet   The Slab
s00kr33m   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   The Slab
Choose Life   5.14-     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Seal Rock
Browse More Classics in South

Featured Route For South
Tower of Power. <br /> <br />(not up from the Animal Chin Boulder,  ON it)

Tower of Power V9  CO : Flatirons : ... : Terrain Boulders
Up from the Animal Chin boulder approximately 20 yards, start in juggy rails, move left to the arete, then mo e back right following a series of small pebbles to the lip....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of South Slideshow Add Photo
Jamcrack Spire, Maiden, Fatiron, Devils Thumb, Flying Flatiron

BETA PHOTO: Jamcrack Spire, Maiden, Fatiron, Devils Thumb, Fly...

From The Slab, 4/11/02.

BETA PHOTO: From The Slab, 4/11/02.

2/7/2003 from near Foothills Parkway and Arapahoe (Eisenhower School)

BETA PHOTO: 2/7/2003 from near Foothills Parkway and Arapahoe ...

The South and Central Flatirons can be a beautiful and lonely place...This image taken after a brief rain, just below the Sphinx.

The South and Central Flatirons can be a beautiful...

The hike into the Southern Flatirons has beautiful Sumac in September and October! Photo by T. Bubb, 09/06.

The hike into the Southern Flatirons has beautiful...

Boulder from the First Flatiron, 5am July.

Boulder from the First Flatiron, 5am July.

In October the trails through the South side of Boulder's Flatirons have a great color as the Bluestem grass and Sumac take on their autumn hue. Joseffa Meir enjoys the hike back from the Matron.

In October the trails through the South side of Bo...

Bear Mountain and Devil's Thumb.

Bear Mountain and Devil's Thumb.

Sumac season in the fall ...

Sumac season in the fall ...

 BH on FA of The Kid, Kid Boulders, South Mesa Trailhead Area.

BH on FA of The Kid, Kid Boulders, South Mesa Tra...

BH on FA of Honey Maroon Overhang V8?, circa 1995.

BH on FA of Honey Maroon Overhang V8?, circa 1995.

Controlled burn out of control... rained ash on us on the Matron.

Controlled burn out of control... rained ash on us...

Bear Peak....

Bear Peak....

Sunset over Bear Peak.

Sunset over Bear Peak.

Aerial view down Shadow Canyon.

Aerial view down Shadow Canyon.

Penstemon secundiflorus on Shadow Canyon trail.

Penstemon secundiflorus on Shadow Canyon trail.

Delphinium nuttallianum on Shadow Canyon trail.

Delphinium nuttallianum on Shadow Canyon trail.

Malacosoma sp on Shadow Canyon trail.

Malacosoma sp on Shadow Canyon trail.

Fern Canyon being saved by fire retardant.

Fern Canyon being saved by fire retardant.

C-130 bomber doing work. From my place right before I bailed.

C-130 bomber doing work. From my place right befor...

Flagstaff Fire, Bear Peak, 2012.

Flagstaff Fire, Bear Peak, 2012.


Comments on South Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 27, 2013
By Pinklebear
Jun 14, 2010

June 2010 new-route application through the Flatirons Climbing Council's Fixed Hardware Review Committee: flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>>

Please click on the above link to submit comments on the proposed climb. The deadline closes June 15; this is the only route submitted this cycle. There will be a public meeting held June 23, Wednesday, at 7:30 p.m. at The Spot gym, Boulder.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jun 14, 2010

This pitch is simply too long. A line must be drawn somewhere. :)

By Pinklebear
Jun 14, 2010

True that! But you can stand on a little perch at 50 feet and catch your breath....

By Pinklebear
Oct 12, 2010

The Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council will hold its public meeting Wednesday, October 20, at 6 p.m. at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado, to discuss and vote on applications for the autumn 2010 cycle. Anyone interested is invited to come participate and cast votes for the three proposals, which can be found here: flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>>

By Pinklebear
Jun 24, 2011

The Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council will hold its public meeting Wednesday, July 6, at 7 p.m. at The Spot Gym, Boulder, Colorado, to discuss and vote on applications for the June 2011 cycle. Anyone interested is invited to come participate and cast votes for the three proposals (two of which are on the Slab), which can be found here: flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>>.
You can also leave comments on the proposed applications at the above link.

By Pinklebear
Jul 24, 2012

As of today, July 24, the fire-closure boundaries have been moved west from the Mesa Trail, allowing access to many of the formations formerly affected by the Flagstaff Fire closure. More info and an updated closure map here from OSMP: www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&view=ar>>>

A reminder to everyone to stay well clear of the closure and burn areas as you head back in to climb. Enjoy!

By Pinklebear
Aug 6, 2012

There is an application for a new climb on the south side of the Maiden, our only application for the August 2012 cycle of the Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council. Details can be found at the link below; the public meeting and vote will be held Wednesday, September 5 at 6:30 p.m. at The Spot gym (thespotgym.com), Boulder, Colorado. The deadline for the next cycle is January 1, 2013, though applications should be submitted in advance if possible.

flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>>

By Pinklebear
Aug 19, 2012

Please note that the application for the Hueco Wall, south face of the Maiden, has been updated to include a possible third pitch, which would have been brought up at the public meeting in any case. You can still view and comment on the application at flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/2012/08/06/august-201>>>

The public vote and meeting is September 5, 6:30 p.m. at The Spot gym in Boulder, Colorado.

By Pinklebear
Sep 10, 2012

There is an application for a new climb on the south face of Seal Rock, the first application for the autumn 2012 cycle of the Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council (www.flatironsclimbing.com). Details can be found at the link below; the public meeting and vote will be held some time early next year, details to be announced. This cycle closes January 1, 2013, though applications should be submitted well in advance.

The application can be found at:
flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>>

By Pinklebear
Nov 23, 2012

A second application has been submitted for the Autumn 2012 cycle of the Flatirons Climbing Council's Fixed Hardware Review Committee, this one for the west face of Overhang Rock. Please visit flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>> to view the application in full, as well as comment on it. The public meeting and vote will be held 6:30 p.m. Wednesday January 16 at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado.

By Pinklebear
Dec 12, 2012

There is an application for a second proposed new climb on the south face of Seal Rock, the final application for the autumn 2012 cycle of the Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council (www.flatironsclimbing.com), which closes January 1, 2013. Details can be found at the link below.The public meeting and vote will be held 6:30 p.m. Wednesday January 16 at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado.

The application for this route, American Nouveau, can be found at:
flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>>

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 27, 2013

Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome.