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DescriptionThis section of the Cirque is beautifully laid out with about 20 routes ascending the many cracks and dihedrals that split this long formation until its' south end where it wraps west into Question Mark Wall. Beginning in the _V_ notch that separates the North Summit and South Summit, a wide variety of difficulty ratings and climbing techniques are available from the 5.4 _Pete's Staircase_, to the 5.10c _Roof Stopper_, as well as a few aid lines up to A2. The most prominent feature along this escarpment is Tom's Thumb, a large pinnacle jutting out from the northern section, which can be easily seen from the valley floor. The granite is good quality and placements are secure. Watch for rock fall along the lower angle routes, as the leader, or even the rope can easily dislodge material onto those below. As with the North Summit wall, hikers are also quite prevalent and I personally experienced an apple core _near miss_ which then actually touched my climbing partner as it hurtled down the face. Wear a helmet. Getting ThereAccess the South Summit wall routes directly from the meadow via the talus field. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Summit Wall:
Gold Wall 5.9 Trad, 4 pitches, 450 feet, Grade II
Center Thumb 5.9+ Trad, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
The Great Escape 5.9+ Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II
Da Black and Gold 5.11- Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Taivallista 5.11c Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
Featured Route For South Summit Wall
Taivallista 5.11c UT : Wasatch Range : ... : South Summit Wall
This is an excellent route that will be a classic once it cleans up a bit. It works fairly well to climb it in 3 pitches. The first pitch is probably easy 5.10. The roof on the second pitch is the crux while the upper roof on pitch three has been climbed by two variations, both around mid 5.10. ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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