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 ADVANCED
Sugarloaf, East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden S 
Bird Man S 
Blue Velvet T,S 
Captain Fingers T 
Crushed Velvet T 
Dominion T 
East Chimney T 
East Face, The T 
Falcon, The S 
Fang-Left Side, The T 
Farley T 
Fracture, The T 
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 
Grand Illusion T 
Harding's Chimney T 
Lady Luck T 
Lurch T 
Mini-Illusion, The S 
Monkey Flower T,S 
Morticia T 
Opus 7 S 
Over the Edge T 
Pinch a Loaf S 
Scheister T 
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 
Stone T 
Swallow Tail T,S 
Talking Heads T 
Tapestry T 
Taurus T 
Telesis S 

South Summit Bolt Ladder 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Warren Harding
Page Views: 416
Submitted By: Josh Cameron on Aug 29, 2011

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Description 

Steep climbing to start followed by a cruxy mantle onto a slab. Pass two bolts to the top of the South Summit. Figuring out how to pull the mantle is a mindbender, but just keep telling yourself it does go at 10a.

Location 

Start in the notch between the South Summit and the Middle Summit. Find the bolt line heading up the South Summit out of the notch.

Protection 

Bolts. The last two have fashioned pieces of bent metal for the hangers.


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By Paul Zander
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 28, 2013

Mantle felt more like v2 to me. Be aware that the last two bolts have odd hangers with unusually small holes that several of my carabiners would not fit through. bring skinny biners.