This is an obscure ice area that has had reports of ice over the years but little specific details. It could be split into lower and upper South St. Vrain, Middle St. Vrain, North, and Dry St. Vrain drainages. The upper and lower stretches may be separated by the Peak to Peak Highway (upper CO Hwy 72).
Some ice dribbles have been known to form along the road in the S. St. Vrain drainage upstream from Lyons. Mention of one of these is in Cameron Burns' Colorado Ice Climber's Guide. However, others have reported more ice here in previous, wet and cold years. Some thin roadside ice climbs have formed in the Narrows along the S. St. Vrain. Some interesting lines have been done in Deadman's Gulch.
Some ice has been reported in the upper drainages of the Middle St. Vrainpast the Peaceful Valley Campground. Jack Roberts' mentions a three of these on the North-facing side in his Colorado Ice and this has been entered on the website under S St Vrain Peak. However, Deb and others have spotted ice forming up on the South-facing side as well.
Now, Mike Hughes had added information about the Dry St. Vrain drainage which has a nice treat.
Lower South St. Vrain drainage can be accessed from Lyons by driving up CO Hwy 7 and keeping a look out for ice on the South side of the road (N facing).
Upper Middle St. Vrain drainage is accessed by walking, snowshoeing, or skiing up the valley from Peaceful Valley along the Peak to Peak Highway. This is South of Estes Park, North of Ward, West of Lyons.
This is a pretty sustained route with 3 very different and distinct cruxes. First: Grovel and grunt your way up the first 30'. Either choose a dirty gully to the left or sketchy verglas blobs to the right. At the constriction above, a #3 Camalot nicely protects the squeeze (on left) before poping thru to a ledge. Then push up thru a chimney. (#4-4.5 cam would be nice here). The final crux is a delicate, bulging, ice column. Stubbies are the norm on this route also. After exiting th...[more]Browse More Classics in CO