Dougald beginning the lead in 'stubbie' territory.
This is an obscure ice area that has had reports of ice over the years but little specific details. It could be split into lower and upper South St. Vrain, Middle St. Vrain, North, and Dry St. Vrain drainages. The upper and lower stretches may be separated by the Peak to Peak Highway (upper CO Hwy 72).
Some ice dribbles have been known to form along the road in the S. St. Vrain drainage upstream from Lyons. Mention of one of these is in Cameron Burns' Colorado Ice Climber's Guide
. However, others have reported more ice here in previous, wet and cold years. Some thin roadside ice climbs have formed in the Narrows along the S. St. Vrain. Some interesting lines have been done in Deadman's Gulch.
Some ice has been reported in the upper drainages of the Middle St. Vrainpast the Peaceful Valley Campground. Jack Roberts' mentions a three of these on the North-facing side in his Colorado Ice and this has been entered on the website under S St Vrain Peak
. However, Deb and others have spotted ice forming up on the South-facing side as well.
Now, Mike Hughes had added information about the Dry St. Vrain drainage which has a nice treat.
For St. Vrain Peak, which also lies in Indian Peaks Wilderness, click here
Lower South St. Vrain drainage can be accessed from Lyons by driving up CO Hwy 7 and keeping a look out for ice on the South side of the road (N facing).
Upper Middle St. Vrain drainage is accessed by walking, snowshoeing, or skiing up the valley from Peaceful Valley along the Peak to Peak Highway. This is South of Estes Park, North of Ward, West of Lyons.
Link to S. St. Vrain Rock
Weather station 2.5 miles from here
9 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in St. Vrain ice
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for St. Vrain ice:
Featured Route For St. Vrain ice
WI5+ M6 CO
: CO Ice & Mixed
: ... : East of Peak to Peak - S. S...
Road Rash begins on slightly overhanging rock with natural pro to get established. Quickly the angle eases as one pulls on sketchy flakes to stand up. Once established you must surmount the lowest flake to clip the bolt in the slab above. Swing your sticks once or twice in the 1-2" ice as you work to get a stance above the bolt which should just get you to the overlap above and more pro. From here follow the left-leaning system, past a tricky layback, to anchors above and left....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for St. Vrain ice
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Tom Walker
Jan 26, 2007
I drove by the ice in the South St. Vrain just west of Lyons yesterday, and it is the fattest that I have observed in several years. Haven't had a chance to climb it yet.