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South-Southwest Ridge
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 3
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Routes in Twin Peaks
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South-Southwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Southeast Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Regis Colasanti, Jack Dais, & John Petrarca, 2000 |
| Page Views: | 1,207 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Furthermore on Jul 10, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Expect only the finest rock, and as mentioned, the climbing is trying to climb a vertical mud pile.
Pitch 1: start on the SSW side of the summit tower and look for a well-featured climb up volcanic tuff. Climb 90 feet into an alcove, 5.3.
Pitch 2: continue straight up from the alcove in a chossy crack system; then veer right to a series of mantels. The upper mantel is the crux and is protected by a fixed pin (more of a mental placement). Continue up the ridge on hollow spires to more solid rock, 5.6 PG-13.
Pitch 3: from the top of the 5.6 pitch, start down a class 3 ramp to a notch. Climb out of the notch, class 4, to the middle summit. The eastern summit is reached by crossing an exposed gap and then a short scramble to the summit, 180 feet, 5.0.
For the descent, use a slung boulder and solution pocket to rappel 80 feet off of the north side of the tower from the top of the second pitch.
Pitch 1: start on the SSW side of the summit tower and look for a well-featured climb up volcanic tuff. Climb 90 feet into an alcove, 5.3.
Pitch 2: continue straight up from the alcove in a chossy crack system; then veer right to a series of mantels. The upper mantel is the crux and is protected by a fixed pin (more of a mental placement). Continue up the ridge on hollow spires to more solid rock, 5.6 PG-13.
Pitch 3: from the top of the 5.6 pitch, start down a class 3 ramp to a notch. Climb out of the notch, class 4, to the middle summit. The eastern summit is reached by crossing an exposed gap and then a short scramble to the summit, 180 feet, 5.0.
For the descent, use a slung boulder and solution pocket to rappel 80 feet off of the north side of the tower from the top of the second pitch.
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