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South Sixshooter

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South Face T 
South Face Angling Crack? T 
South Face Right T 

South Sixshooter  


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Location: 38.12093, -109.65158 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 58,039
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Mar 25, 2002
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Description 

In addition to all the buttresses, Indian Creek has two solitary towers sitting on talus cones. South Sixshooter is the smaller of the two(the one on the left when viewed from the Bridger Jack area), and has the easiest good route in Indian Creek, and maybe the easiest tower summit route in the desert.

Getting There 

Continue past Bridger Jack mesa, and drive past the two Sixshooter towers. Turn left on the road in to Davis Canyon, which is signed and leads to Canyonlands. The trailhead is several miles up the 4WD road - high clearance or a complete disregard for your car are required to make it all the way. Park in the dry creekbed at the easiest looking point of the low mesa - you will drive all the way around the mesa and park as the road starts to head away from it. A cairned trail exists on the mesa that is worth finding to make the approach easier and to protect the cryptobiotic soil. Plan on an hour or so uphill walk to get to the base of the tower.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.6 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Sixshooter:
South Face   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Grade II   
South Face Right   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
South Face Angling Crack?   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Classics in South Sixshooter

Featured Route For South Sixshooter
south face crack

South Face Angling Crack? 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  UT : Moab Area : ... : South Sixshooter
This is the beautiful left angling crack up the south face of South Six Shooter. It begins as a wide crack with some stemming options (doesn't feel like an offwidth). Then, angle left as it tapers from big hands down to fingers. You can do this as one pitch to a rap anchor after 90 feet. Or take it to the top in two pitches joining the last pitch of the "regular" South Face route to the top and do two single rope rappels with a 60 meter rope back down the route to the ground....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of South Sixshooter Slideshow Add Photo
South Six Shooter at night
South Six Shooter at night
Sunset behind South Six Shooter
Sunset behind South Six Shooter
BETA PHOTO
The sixshooters at sunset
The sixshooters at sunset
South Six Shooter Peak as seen from the summit of ...
South Six Shooter Peak as seen from the summit of ...
Cyndie Bransford and clan on the summit of South S...
Cyndie Bransford and clan on the summit of South S...
View from summit of South Sixshooter
View from summit of South Sixshooter
Patrick @ the base of the South Face of South Six ...
Patrick @ the base of the South Face of South Six ...
South 6-Shooter
South 6-Shooter
BETA PHOTO
These guys watch you coming up.
These guys watch you coming up.
Kev, looking cool in front of South Six Shooter
Kev, looking cool in front of South Six Shooter
Patrick follows the final moves before the summit.
Patrick follows the final moves before the summit.

Comments on South Sixshooter Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 26, 2014
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 28, 2003
Some additional approach beta: whether driving or hiking (like us), follow Davis Canyon road until the signed turn-off for Lavender Canyon on the left (a mile or so up the big wash). From there, take nice cow paths that head off right, until below the south part of the lower talus cone. There are some cairns on large white rocks here that mark a good spot to head up and left to some more cairns, that lead to a break in the "white rim" cliffs--from there, a nice walk up a small drainage leads to a fairly obvious cairned trail up the final talus slope.

There are many beautiful cracks on the south face, only a couple of which seem to be in any guidebooks. Consider doing the prominent 5.9 corner up the center of the face--it appears to offer reasonable and much better climbing than the standard South Face route.

If you have a sixty meter rope, do not bring two ropes!! From the big block with slings below the left (west) summit, you can reach the ground with a few feet to spare, with a sixty.

The view is not quite as good as from the North Sixshooter, but this is a very worthwile and spectacular summit IMHO.
By Angrene
Nov 19, 2008
FYI: wanted to let anyone heading out to climb this tower that I pulled one bolt out of the top anchors as I was heading off to rappel. It was quite loose to begin with in hollow sounding rock - if you can imagine that fun sound in sandstone. This was on Mon 11/17/2008. Sorry - please be prepared for this.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Nov 19, 2008
One of the two Half inchers with chain? Something messed with it if so. There were two other bolts up there that I did not incorporate into the anchor. Was it one of them? I hope it was one of them that changed its mind.
By Angrene
Nov 19, 2008
Unfortunately, yes. There were only two bolts up there, and the one closest to the edge just popped right out. I was trying not to pull up too much, but it still came out. It was not unscrewed, just loose & the rock sounded pretty hollow around where it was. I definitely think it was a rock issue.The other bolt was really solid though.

Sorry it happened to your generous work.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Nov 19, 2008
OK Gang, Angie was there so we know how it is. All I can figure is the the thunderstorms this summer let a huge amount of water into the hole and that maybe the anchor took a lightning strike... I can only tell you all was solid last spring (as numerous ascents since have proven).
This is to be expected sometimes in bolts placed vertically in sandstone. I am currently laid up and thus cannot get up there to fix it for at least a few weeks. If someone is going up there I will provide the equipment for replacement. Just get in touch with me
One other option is that there have been a couple people complaining about the upgraded anchors... maybe they tried to remove them.
By Jeremy Werlin
Mar 14, 2010
Summit bolts all good as of 3/13/10.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 6, 2011
A few bits of info:

According to the sign, it's 8 miles off 211 to the trailhead. Stay left until you get to the Lavender Canyon sign. The Davis Canyon approach takes you much further to the east than one might think. The 1st canyon deadends near North Six Shooter. The 4WD road is worst near the start (~0.5mi in). You have to have a NPS permit to camp at the trailhead. A Honda Pilot had enough clearance.
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Jun 1, 2011
@Leo:
I don't think that's correct. It's not 8 miles to the 'trailhead' for SSSP; it's only ca. 3 miles in from the pavement to the start of the approach hike. Maybe you're thinking of the end of the Davis Cyn road, at the NPS boundary? That's more like 7-8 miles.
And, there's no requirement for a NPS permit to camp at the SSSP 'trailhead'. That's located on BLM land (although part of the road in the wash does cross private land).
By DaveT
From: Albuquerque
May 29, 2012
Here's what I've got for driving beta to help avoid future approach wobblers like mine. From the Davis Canyon turnoff from the pavement, go .8 miles to a gate (was not posted but may be private land?), staying right at a fork part of the way in. Go 1 mile more to gain the big wash. Another 1.4 miles up wash, passing Lavender Canyon split on the left, to a right fork in the wash. Take this right fork for another .7 miles to the start of the foot trail marked with some stones placed on edge arranged in a square. Can see big cairns up on the ridge and small ones down low. This was per last weekend. Those mileages are approx and there may be another way to go around the gate, but didn't look like a problem to me.
By Art Beckman
Nov 29, 2012
Tried to follow the previous directions, but there are too many road splits. The key is to head consistently to the left (E) of S. Six Shooter while avoiding roads which head West to N. Six Shooter or that canyon between them. Then drive as far around the mesa as you can. Looks like many people stop too soon. We drove most of the way around it. The road ended and the trail was right there. Perhaps there are other trails, but the one we found went pretty much straight up with lots of cairns.

We used a 70m rope and had more than 10m left after rapping off the upper ledge rings (first ledge w/ anchors from the summit). There is a lower ledge with a rappel station, but you don't need a separate stop.
By bikesrockswaves
From: Tucson, Arizona
Mar 26, 2014
Quick comments from 3/19/14 ascent. Drive that road ALL the way around the tower until it ends (once in the wash, keep bearing right, staying right into smaller fork of wash). To the end. Drove it in Subaru, no problem, but anything less would be hard.
#2 - if 5.9/.10+ climber, definitely do the cracks right of the south face route start. Excellent. The right of the two .9 dihedrals is excellent and makes for a superb bypass and pretty direct line to right summit.
#3 - all anchors looked lovely; tightened one hanger up a bunch on main summit, but felt solid.