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Unlike the more forbidding Looking Glass areas, the South Side has something for everybody. Beginners can hop on easier climbs like Lichen or Not or Good Intentions; moderate leaders can hone their skills on great lines like Gemini Crack; and seasoned climbers can push themselves on harder routes like Dinkus Dog. Most of the routes at the South End are multi-pitch, but route-finding is straightforward and descent options include plentiful bolted rap stations.
From the road fork, continue up the gravel road a short distance to the Slickrock Falls trailhead, located where the road takes a hard left. Hike up the trail, following switchbacks, for about three-quarters of a mile, ending at the base of the wall in the Bloody Crack area.
21 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in South Side
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Side:
Fat Dog 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 325'
Second Coming 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Bloody Crack 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
First Return 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Rat's Ass 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Zodiac 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Gemini Crack 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Unfinished Concerto 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Windwalker 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
B-52 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Dinkus Dog 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Chaos Out of Control 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Bat's Ass 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Featured Route For South Side
Gemini Crack 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side
One of three routes starting from the Sentry Box Ledge, Gemini Crack is an excellent line with a thought-provoking but well-protected crux. Though officially it's a two-pitch climb, there's no good reason not to do it in one long pitch. Don't miss this classic if you're climbing the South Side.P1 - Starting on the Sentry Ledge, climb a right-facing corner until you're just below a pair of left-angling vertical cracks on steeper ground. Move right to the cracks and follow them up and left (cru...[more] Browse More Classics in NC
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