In general the crags on this side of the gorge are cool, shady, stay wet, humid, and seepy.
This side of the gorge is a great place to come on a Hot summer day, during a big dry spell, if you are staying at Roger's or if you are looking for lots of sport climbing.
Not to say that the North side doesn't have variety but the South side HAS VARIETY! From the pure exploration and adventure climbing in South Bubba and South Nuttal to the highly gumbie style sport mecca of Kaymoor, even the very sunny Sunshine Buttress for those of you looking for a winter tan.
On the Fayettevill side, access to South Nuttal and South Bubba can be touchy so check in with Waterstone for the latest access beta.
Browse More Classics in South Side
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Side:
Featured Route For South Side
Blood Raid 5.13a WV : New River Gorge : ... : The Glory Hole
A classic Doug Reed route, Blood Raid is one of the finest routes of it's grade at the new. Begin 10 ft. right of Lactic starting on easy moves to gain a ledge below the first of a series of horizontal roofs. Start cruising out the roof on a beautiful pancake flake eventually pulling out onto the face on crimps. Crank up the steep face and pull the final roof making a big move up to a good hold. Keep it together and clip the chain anchors. ...[more] Browse More Classics in WV