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Climber taking a whip off the crux crimps of Minis... DescriptionIn general the crags on this side of the gorge are cool, shady, stay wet, humid, and seepy.
This side of the gorge is a great place to come on a Hot summer day, during a big dry spell, if you are staying at Roger's or if you are looking for lots of sport climbing. Not to say that the North side doesn't have variety but the South side HAS VARIETY! From the pure exploration and adventure climbing in South Bubba and South Nuttal to the highly gumbie style sport mecca of Kaymoor, even the very sunny Sunshine Buttress for those of you looking for a winter tan. Getting ThereOn the Fayettevill side, access to South Nuttal and South Bubba can be touchy so check in with Waterstone for the latest access beta. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Side:
Flight of the Gumbie 5.9+ Sport, 90 feet Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Rico Sauve 5.10a Sport, 80 feet Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress
The Green Piece 5.10b Sport Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Fairtracer 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall
Sancho Belige 5.11c Sport, 90 feet Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Scenic Adult 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall
Moon Child Posse 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Kaymoor : White Wall
Tony the Tiger 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall
Mo' Betta' Holds 5.11c/d Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Out of the Bag 5.11c/d Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress
Magnatude 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Kaymoor : First Buttress
Lost Souls 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Yowsah 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Kaymoor : The Glory Hole
Pockets of Resistance 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress
Dining at the Altar 5.12a Sport, 80 feet Kaymoor : White Wall
Thunderstruck 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Kaymoor : White Wall
Lactic Acid Bath 5.12d Sport Kaymoor : The Glory Hole
Devil Doll 5.12d Sport Kaymoor : The Glory Hole
Slash and Burn 5.12d Sport, 80 feet Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall
Blood Raid 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Kaymoor : The Glory Hole
Featured Route For South Side
 A classic Doug Reed route, Blood Raid is one of the finest routes of it's grade at the new. Begin 10 ft. right of Lactic starting on easy moves to gain a ledge below the first of a series of horizontal roofs. Start cruising out the roof on a beautiful pancake flake eventually pulling out onto the face on crimps. Crank up the steep face and pull the final roof making a big move up to a good hold. Keep it together and clip the chain anchors. ...[more] Browse More Classics in WV |
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